Having the right tool for the job—it’s a metaphor commonly applied to all sorts of self-improvement genres. On a boat, where problems are bound by length, beam and draft, having the right tool to fix the problem is often a literal requirement. 

In my decades as a yacht captain, I’ve come to rely on my tool bag that stores easily, yet it always has what’s needed to make repairs and keep going, instead of limping home.

Keep It Together

Organized tools are easy to find and harder to misplace. My Custom LeatherCraft 1130 tool backpack was discontinued, unfortunately. CLC’s model 1134 is the closest replacement, although it lacks the fold-out tool row. To keep wrenches in line, I write their sizes with a Sharpie on a simple canvas tool roll.

Wrenches & Sockets

Carrying wrenches and sockets in both metric and imperial sizes gets bulky and heavy, and ­adjustable wrenches don’t fit into tight places. Many repairs require two of the same-size wrench, adding heft. Fortunately, several sizes, such as 5/8 inch and 16 mm, are nearly identical. Others are close, but while 18 mm works in place of 11/16, the reverse is not true—11/16 is too tight.

For all you’ll need and nothing more, start with a set of combination wrenches from 7 mm to 19 mm, and then add 1/4, 5/16, 11/32, and 3/8 inch, 10 mm (you’ll want two of those), 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 (buy two), 3/4, 13/16, and 7/8 inch. I add a double-sided 15/16- and 1-inch open-end wrench and two adjustable wrenches—one 10 inch (with an extra-wide 15/16-inch opening) and another 6 inch with a rubber handle for working near battery terminals. A 10-inch aluminum pipe wrench comes in handy. Pawn shops offer single sizes inexpensively, and note that 18 mm and 3/32-inch sizes are often needed yet skipped in consumer-grade sets of these.

Deep-well sockets often fit when standard-depth won’t. In 3/8-inch drive, you’ll want these sizes: 3/8, 10 mm, 7/16, 12 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 9/16, 15 mm, 16 mm, 17 mm, 18 mm, 3/4, and 13/16. My “stubby” 3/8-drive ratchet with an articulating “flex-head” fits into tight places, while a 3/8-drive “wobble” extension accommodates difficult angles. I also carry 1/4-inch drive sockets down to 5 mm and 3/16 inch.

Screwdrivers & ­Pliers

Most jobs fall within No. 0, No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 Philips and 1/8-, 3/16-, and 1/4-inch slotted screwdrivers. Tight places often require 1/4-inch or No. 2 Philips shortened “stubby” or right-angle “offset” screwdrivers. Nut drivers in 1/4 inch, 5/16, and 7 mm won’t slip off hose clamps like a slotted screwdriver does, particularly in cramped bilges. A ratcheting screwdriver with hex-shank twist drill bits makes a serviceable hand drill, and it also turns Torx (star-drive) bits in sizes T10, T15, T20, T27 and T30, as well as No. 1 through No. 3 Robertson (square-drive). Ball-end Allen (hex) wrenches, in metric and imperial sizes, angle into tight places ordinary hex wrenches can’t.

Self-adjusting 10-inch Robo Grip pliers are easier to use than similar arc-joint pliers. I also carry small 7-inch and large ­12-inch arc-joint pliers, along with 10-inch slip-joint and 6-inch needle-nose pliers. Vice-Grips in both 10-inch curved-jaw and 6-inch long-nose varieties, along with wire cutters, wire strippers and a crimping tool, round out my set.

Clean, Cut, Scrape or Pick

A stiff putty knife, sharpened with a file, removes old gaskets without damaging parts or knuckles. Slide a “hose hook” (mine is actually a cotter-pin puller) around the inside of a hose to break it free. A hacksaw with extra blades, two stainless-steel wire brushes (shorten long wooden handles to fit into the bag), dental picks, and a snap-blade utility knife round out sharp and pointy necessities.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Miscellaneous

A telescoping mirror and a small, bright flashlight help you see what you’re fixing, and a strong telescoping retrieval magnet recovers dropped tools. A 16-ounce dead-blow hammer loosens what’s stuck or nudges what isn’t, while screw extractors remove stripped screws. A bicycle air pump pressurizes hydraulic steering reservoirs and freshwater expansion tanks. 

A tape measure, 6-inch stainless-steel machinist rule, and plastic calipers help get the right replacement parts. ­Thexton thread pitch gauges include holes that ­identify screw sizes. You’ll also want small tubes of thread-lock (the blue semipermanent ­variety), pipe-thread sealant, ­gasket-maker compound, Teflon lube, and superglue, along with electrical tape and tie wraps.

And the next time you catch a Forbes article or TED Talk about “the right tool for the job,” remember, it isn’t always a ­metaphor.

Wrench-Size Guide

These wrenches pull double duty:

• 7/16 ≥ 11 mm
• 13 mm ≥ 1/2
• 16 mm ≥ 5/8
• 18 mm ≥ 11/16
• 3/4 ≥ 19 mm
• 21 mm ≥ 13/16 (13/16 works on 20 mm too)
• 7/8 ≥ 22
• 15/16 ≥ 23

The post Choosing the Right Tools for Boat Repairs appeared first on Boating Mag.

Whether you fish freshwater or salt, inshore or off, or are powered by paddle or engine, trolling motors open many doors. Pairing your trolling motor with the right battery is the first step to unlocking these benefits. 

Getting it right ultimately means more fishing, less hassle and years of performance. Here’s our take on the best trolling motor batteries, no matter the need or circumstance.

Quicklook: 7 Top Trolling Motor Batteries

• Best lithium trolling motor battery: Dakota Lithium 36V 110Ah
• Best deep cycle trolling motor battery: Relion RB24V100 Lithium Iron Phosphate Deep Cycle Battery, 24V, 100Ah
• Best AGM trolling motor battery: Bass Pro Shops Power Series Deep-Cycle AGM Marine Battery
• Best trolling motor battery for 80 lb thrust: LiTime 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery
• Best kayak trolling motor battery: Dakota Lithium 12V54Ah 
• Best 12v trolling motor battery: Relion Group 31 RB100 Lithium Iron Phosphate Deep Cycle Battery, 12V, 100Ah
• Best trolling motor battery on a budget: Goldenmate 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery

Best Trolling Motor Battery Options

Determining the best troll motor battery for you means choosing between power, size, shelf life and budget. Fortunately, these days there are good trolling motor batteries for every person and type of boat and budget. 

Dakota Lithium 36V 110Ah

The Dakota Lithium 36V 110Ah is a beast. It’s large enough to power trolling motors all day, delivering the thrust you need to fish hard. Delivering 200% of the power of traditional batteries, it weighs half as much, charges up to five times faster and can last up to eight times as long as other types of trolling motor batteries. 

Best for: Lithium batteries

Features:

• 11-year warranty
• Delivers full power throughout its charge, as opposed to other battery types that deliver less power as their charge decreases
• With 36 volts, this battery provides lots of power output for a long time 

Disadvantages:

• Relatively expensive
• Its large footprint makes it less than ideal for smaller boats 

Price: $2,299.99

Relion RB24V100 Lithium Iron Phosphate Deep Cycle Battery, 24V, 100Ah

Relion’s RB24V100 Lithium Iron Phosphate Deep Cycle Battery combines the benefits of a lithium trolling motor battery with the deep cycle battery’s long-lasting power. At 24 volts, it’s a great option for boat owners who lean heavy on the trolling motor. 

Best for: Deep cycle batteries

Features:

• Weighs 50-60% less than equivalent batteries of other types
• Provides up to 10 times the lifespan of lead-acid batteries 
• Rated to deliver 80% of stated charge, even after 2,000 cycles
• Low maintenance 

Disadvantages:

• It’s a lithium battery and it’s not cheap.
• 24 volts is a sweet spot for some boaters, but it’s not as small as a 12 volt or as powerful as a 36 volt.

Price: $1,224.99

Bass Pro Shops Power Series Deep-Cycle AGM Marine Battery

Available in three sizes, the Bass Pro Shops Power Series Deep-Cycle AGM Marine Battery delivers battery life, power, and on-the-water performance. It provides two operational modes: starting/cranking and deep-cycle. AGM batteries are a great choice for trolling motors. 

Best for: AGM batteries

Features:

• Warrantied for up to three years
• Ample reserve capacity 
• Available in three sizes
• Leakproof 

Disadvantages: Heavier than comparable lithium batteries

Price: $174.99-$229.99

LiTime 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery

In the world of trolling motors, thrust is a function of voltage. 12 volt batteries, depending on their amp hour rating, generally provide between about 20 and 70 pounds of thrust. Offering 80 pounds of thrust, the LiTime 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium is a great choice for those needing a bit more out of their trolling motor batteries.

Best for: 80 pounds of thrust

Features:

• Lightweight and more portable than you might imagine
• High quality construction with automotive grade components
• Rapid charging

Disadvantages: Measuring 21 inches across, you won’t be able to squeeze this battery into cramped compartments. 

Price: $445.19

Dakota Lithium 12V54Ah

When you’re packing a trolling motor battery for your kayak, you need reliable performance in a compact, lightweight footprint. The Dakota Lithium 12V54Ah has this covered. Measuring roughly 8 inches by 9 inches by 5 inches, it’s tailor made for kayak fishing. 

Best for: Kayaks

Features:

• Charger included
• 11-year warranty
• Long lasting 

Disadvantages: It’s a lithium battery, and is priced as such. 

Price: $399.99

Relion Group 31 RB100 

The Relion Group 31 RB100 Lithium Iron Phosphate Deep Cycle Battery is a great option for anyone seeking a classic 12v trolling motor battery. Delivering an impressive combination of power and durability in a relatively compact footprint, it’s a lighter weight alternative to other forms of 12v batteries. 

Best for: 12v trolling motor battery

Features:

• Maintenance free
• Offers all of the benefits of a lithium battery
• More powerful than equivalent batteries of other type

Disadvantages: More expensive than other 12v battery options

Price: $629.99

Goldenmate 12V 100Ah

The Goldenmate 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery packs all the benefits of lithium trolling motor batteries into a price that’s affordable for many anglers. Featuring a long lifespan with low maintenance requirements, it offers stable, consistent power to your trolling motor. 

Best for: A trolling motor battery on a budget

Features:

• Up to 10 times the lifespan of other types of trolling motor batteries
• High and low temperature protections that prevent battery damage in extreme conditions
• Easy to recharge and maintain

Disadvantages: Weighing in at 55 pounds, this battery won’t be your lightest option. 

Price: $186.97

Assessing Your Marine Battery for Trolling Motor Options

The right trolling motor battery for you depends on a variety of factors, like your budget and the type of boat you own. 

• Capacity and voltage: A great first step to narrow down your choices is to check the manual of your trolling motor for battery specs. Generally speaking, the larger and heavier your boat, and the bigger your trolling motor, the more power you will need. 
• Weight and size: You’ll want batteries that can fit in the spaces on your boat, and are light enough to move if needed. 
• Lifespan and maintenance: Lithium batteries last a long time and require less maintenance, but are typically more expensive than alternatives. AGM batteries provide great performance with a lower price. Other types of batteries may be cheaper, but require more maintenance. 
• Cost and value: A higher-quality battery may cost more upfront, but can offer more reliability and runtime, and require fewer replacements over time. The cheapest options don’t necessarily offer the greatest value overall.
• Charging time and convenience: Batteries with shorter charging times may get you out on the water faster, but the convenience may come at the cost of capacity. Find out whether the ones you’re considering are compatible with onboard chargers or solar panels if you want the option to extend your trips.
• Safety and environmental concerns: Robust safety features protect you from hazards like overheating and acid leaks. Environmentally friendly lithium-ion and AGM batteries reduce the risk of pollution and align with eco-conscious boating practices.

Choose Wisely to Meet Your Needs

Modern trolling motor batteries have come a long way over the last decade, both in terms of performance and longevity. Incorporating their benefits into your setup can help you catch more fish, and make your time on the water more carefree. 

Given the wide variety of marine batteries now on the market, the task of narrowing down the options may seem overwhelming. From our perspective, you can’t go wrong with any of the recommendations on this list.

FAQ

The post What Are the Best Trolling Motor Batteries for Your Needs? appeared first on Boating Mag.

Whether on the lake, river or bay, nothing packs a party quite like a pontoon boat. Recent advancements in LED lighting take the pontoon boat party to a whole new level. What follows is our take on dialing in your pontoon boat led lighting setup.

What Lights Does a Pontoon Boat Need?

Like all vessels, the right pontoon boat LED lighting setup involves a combination of lights that you’re required to have and those that make the experience more fun. Whether navigation lights, spreader bars, underwater lighting or light strips around the deck, LED lights are functional, versatile and quite a bit of fun. 

LED setups offer a number of customization possibilities. For instance, they may be:

• Dimmable: You can control and adjust the brightness and lumen output via apps on your marine electronics or smartphone.
• Multi-color changing: The same bulb can produce an incredible variety of colors. Previous lighting options, if they had the ability to change color at all, were extremely limited. 
• Syncable with sound: With the right setup and installation, you can make the lights on your pontoon boat change in brightness and color to music. LED light strips like these are really cool for kids and adults alike.

Lighting for Pontoon Boats: Legal Requirements

The exact lighting setup you will need depends on the length of your pontoon boat. Be sure to check the legal requirements for your situation. The requirements include the number of lights, angle of light emitted, and visible range of the light.

At its most basic, your pontoon boat needs the following:

• Masthead lights: These are typically white lights that are mounted in a place that is visible to other boats. This base-mounted, fold down LED pole light is a great example. 
• Navigation lights: These are the classic red and green lights mounted on the bow of your boat. In addition to being required by law, they let other vessels know which direction you are traveling at night. 
• Stern lights: You also need stern lights mounted on the back of your boat and an all-around light. 

‘Nice-to-Have’ Lights for a Pontoon Boat

Beyond the lights required by law, you can outfit your pontoon with an incredible variety of exciting LED lighting options. Consider illuminating the dock, installing courtesy lights along pathways and steps, and adding submersible underwater LED lights. 

You also have many options when it comes to deck lighting. For instance, you can mount a series of recessed LED lights along the walls or beneath the covering boards. You can also mount an LED light strip to run the length of your pontoon boat.

Other great varieties of pontoon boat LED lights include:

• Spreader lights to illuminate where you’re going 
• Utility livewell lights
• Tube lights that light the console

Boating’s Top Spotlights for Boaters provides a breakdown of spotlight options for your pontoon boat.  

Benefits of LED Lights for Pontoon Boats

LED lights for pontoon boats provide a wide ranging number of benefits. They provide a significant energy savings and produce less heat than other forms of lighting. 

The primary benefits include:

• Energy efficiency: LED lights draw less battery power to produce the same number of lumens than do halogen or incandescent lights. 
• Longevity and durability: When properly maintained, LED lights last longer and stand up to the elements. If you do need to replace a bulb, they’re more consistent between lights than other types of lighting.
• Brightness and visibility: LED lights produce more light in smaller packages than other types of boat lighting. 
• Versatility in color: LED lighting systems allow you to customize the color of your boat’s lighting. You can also control many LED light kits with apps. 

Installing Pontoon Boat LED Lights

Just as there are many LED lighting products, you have a range of installation options. Hire a professional, or install them yourself. Integrate all your pontoon boat LED lights into a single circuit, or install and control them individually. 

Check out the 2024 Pontoon Boat Buyer’s Guide for some design inspiration. This review of the SunCatcher Elite provides some additional perspective. 

Marine Mounting Considerations

Where and how you mount your LED lighting systems depends on your boat’s setup and the look you’re after. You can install a series of individual recessed lights or mount an LED strip on a track. 

Professional vs. DIY Pontoon Light Installation

Most LED lighting systems are wired into your pontoon boat’s battery system. If you are technical, you may be able to install a new lighting system or modify the one you have. 

Professional installation is a great option, too. Professionals understand your boat’s voltage (and can make sure to install the appropriate lights). Most LED manufacturers make them in 12V and 24V options. 

How you install LED lights on your pontoon boat also depends on how complex and feature-rich you’d like your system to be. When you start including dimmability and app control, or integrating different LED lighting components, the installation gets more complex. 

Maintaining LED Pontoon Lights 

When properly maintained, your pontoon boat LED lighting system will last a long time. Clean and dry the lights after use to keep them in ship shape. Make sure that your connections are secure and that the wiring and batteries stay dry.

If you use your pontoon boat in saltwater, take extra care to avoid corrosion. Also, be sure to test your navigation lights before you leave the dock. Being in the middle of the lake at night is no time to find out that your lights are out. 

Make a Safe Investment in LED Pontoon Boat Lights

So you’ve got your pontoon boat. You know the many benefits of LED lighting setups. Now it’s time to bring a fully customized, brighter LED setup to the biggest party on the water. Pontoon boats are great. They’re even better with LEDs. 

FAQ

The post Guide to LED Pontoon Boat Lights appeared first on Boating Mag.

Why choose ODYSSEY batteries? Are they worth it? How long do they last? Where can you find them? The Internet has questions, and Captain Don Dingman, Jacksonville charter captain, TV host and longtime ODYSSEY battery ambassador, has the answers. Captain Don serves as our search engine, schooling us on why ODYSSEY batteries are his go-to battery. With 2x the power, 3x the lifespan, and unmatched reliability, the choice is simple.

To learn more or purchase your own, visit odysseybattery.com. 

The post ODYSSEY Battery: Ask the Internet appeared first on Boating Mag.

In the past, Boating has advised boaters to avoid the use of lithium-iron-phosphate (LFP) batteries in marine starting applications. But ReLiOn is rewriting that rule with its RB100-HP, the first and only LFP approved for use as a starting battery for a number of midrange to upper-range Mercury Marine outboards.

The RB100-HP is designed to serve as a dual-purpose (starting and deep-cycle) 12-volt ­drop-in replacement for a Group 31 lead-acid battery. Though the same physical size as a Group 31, it weighs about half as much as its lead-acid equivalent—a benefit common to all LFP batteries. 

However, unlike other LFPs designed only for deep-cycle ­applications, the RB100-HP’s ­battery management system (BMS) is programmed to produce the bursts of high energy needed to start marine engines. It can pump out 800 marine cranking amps for 8 seconds or more. Also unique to this LFP battery is the ability to safely accept the standard 12-volt electrical charge produced by the engine alternator. Other LFPs require specialized charging systems to safely and fully replenish their reserves.

The battery was built to complement the propulsion ­system, not vice versa, says Darren Massey with ReLiOn tech support. “The battery is designed to mimic a lead-acid, but with less maintenance and more reserve power,” Massey explains. The RB100-HP offers 178 percent more reserve capacity than a comparable lead-acid battery, and will accept an alternator charge up to 150 amps.

The RB100-HP is currently ­approved for starting Merc’s 2.1L 75 to 115 hp outboards, 3.0L 150 hp engines, 4.6L V-8 and 3.4L V-6 175 to 300 hp models, 2.6L L-6 200 to 400 hp outboards, 5.7L V-10 350 to 400 hp models, and 7.6L V-12 500 to 600 hp outboards. There are no MerCruiser inboards or sterndrive engines on the ­approved list.

Note that Mercury and ReLiOn are both owned by Brunswick Corp., so it is natural for these brands to work together in developing and certifying this new battery technology. But what if you don’t run one of the approved Mercury outboards? Can boaters use the RB-100-HP with engines from other brands?  

“We always advise boaters to check with their engine and boat manufacturer as to which batteries are approved for use with their particular models,” says Mara Rust, senior category manager for Power Systems at Navico, a ­division of Brunswick.

Whatever engine you run, keep in mind that a BMS in an LFP can shut down the battery if it senses danger such as a surge or voltage spike. This BMS feature is called “protection mode,” and it is one of the reasons for traditionally avoiding LFPs in starting applications. If a battery is shut off while an engine is running, it could fry the rectifiers in the alternator. However, the certified Mercury outboards will continue to run and remain undamaged if the starting battery is shut off for any reason, says Brad Taylor, product integration and technical specialist for Mercury. “The approved Mercury engines will protect themselves from this situation, known as a ‘load dump,’” Taylor explains.

Read Next: Installing a Lithium Battery System

Before you buy, install and use the BR100-HP to start a ­nonapproved engine from any brand, be sure to check with the engine builder to make sure you will not fry the rectifiers in your motor’s alternator if the LFP goes into protection mode.

The RB100-HP has three ­positive terminal posts and three negative terminal posts. “­Having six battery terminals versus two on standard batteries offers ­boaters more flexibility when connecting electronics as well as a motor to the battery,” says Rust, who notes that ABYC ­standards call for limiting the number of ring connectors to four per ­terminal stud. This LFP also boasts an IP67 waterproof rating, which protects the BMS for up to 30 minutes in depths to 1 meter.

Lithiums are known to last much longer than lead-acid batteries, but what kind of service life can you expect from a starting LFP? Since life expectancy will vary with use, Rust points to the 10-year limited warranty, which includes a three-year free replacement or repair period. The BR100-HP carries a manufacturer’s suggested retail price of $999.95. To learn more, visit relionbattery.com.

The post ReLiOn RB100-HP Starting Battery appeared first on Boating Mag.

Preparing a trailer boat for on-road safety while towing to and from a launch ramp calls for securing the transom eyes to the trailer with a pair of properly rated transom ­tie-down straps, in addition to securing the bow eye with the winch strap and safety chain. 

A pair of transom web straps generally connects the transom eyes to corresponding ­tie-down points on the back of the trailer, tightening with a buckle or a ratchet. Traditionally, you store the straps in your tow vehicle after you launch.   

However, one type of transom tie-down strap is engineered to remain attached to the trailer. These are known as retractable transom tie-down straps, and they were first introduced in the 1990s by Boat Buckle. The design concept has since been copied by a number of other companies, including BetterBoat, CargoLoc, Fulton, RhinoUSA, Strappino and others. 

While retractable transom tie-down straps are fairly easy to install, there are important factors to keep in mind when choosing straps and mounting methods to maximize longevity of the system and help ensure that the boat is secured as well as possible to the trailer while towing to keep the hull from sliding about or bouncing on the bunks or rollers. 

For this installation of retractable transom straps, we focus on a 21.5-foot center-console trailer boat that weighs approximately 4,000 pounds without the trailer and is used primarily in salt water. Here’s how the installation went.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2 hours

Tools and Supplies

• BetterBoat retractable ­43-inch stainless-steel ratchet tie-down straps ($73.99 per pair with adapter brackets and hardware; amazon.com)
• Power drill and drill-bit set
• Socket-wrench set
• Box/open-end wrench set
• Tape measure
• Cold-galvanizing spray paint ($21.90 per CRC ­Zinc-It 13-ounce aerosol can; grainger.com)

Select Straps

Retractable transom tie-down strap systems come in a variety of ratings for working loads and breaking strength. Select the highest rating possible for your rig. Better to have straps that are too strong than too weak. Ensure that the straps offer sufficient length to reach the transom eyes from the mounting point. If you boat in salt water, consider stainless-steel models with construction that resists ­corrosion. In our case, we decided on a pair of ­BetterBoat stainless-steel models with 43-by-2-inch web straps with a working load limit of 600 pounds and an assembly breaking strength of 1,800 pounds each.

Tip: Stainless-steel models have lower strength ratings than comparable models featuring carbon-steel construction, but the stainless version will cost more. If you boat in fresh water only, you can choose from the carbon-steel models.

Mounting Method

The compact ratchet system will mount in two ways. The standard method calls for fastening a 10 mm diameter  bolt through a hole in the rear crossmember of the trailer using a matching washer and nut. The second employs an adapter bracket that bolts to the trailer tie-down that is perpendicular on the rear crossmember. Thus, as with the standard mounting method, the strap deploys flat/parallel to the transom surface, eliminating any twist. Using the adapter bracket also eliminates the need to drill a hole in the trailer, which can break the painted or galvanized finish of a steel trailer and lead to corrosion.

Determine Location

The mounting location for the ratchet on the rear crossmember should align as vertically as possible with the transom tie-down eyes on the boat. Avoid angling the strap more than 30 degrees in any direction from up and down. Also avoid locations that draw the strap across any objects such as the aft corner of the hull, a trim tab or a transom-mounted transducer. On boats with integral outboard brackets or extended aft platforms, deploying the strap across the bottom of the transom might prove unavoidable. If this is necessary, consider placing a towel under the strap before tightening it to forestall wear on the boat finish.

Tip: In deciding a mounting location, be sure there’s enough swing room to work the ratch handle back and forth before you finalize your decision. There might be, for instance, a trailer taillight or trim tab that interferes with the handle or becomes a finger pinch point when tensioning the ratchet. 

Mount the Ratchets

If you choose the standard installation method, drill mounting holes in the desired locations, then give the raw metal a couple of coats of rust-fighting cold-galvanizing spray paint. Next, bolt the ratchets securely to the rear crossmember using the supplied hardware. If using an adapter bracket, decide on the best angle for the adapter depending on if the tie-down is in a vertical or horizontal orientation. Use the angle that orients the back of the ratchet mechanism parallel to the transom, allowing the strap to deploy parallel to the transom as well. Bolt the ratchets securely to the adapters using the supplied hardware.

Read Next: 6 Best Boat Trailer Light Kit Options

Deploy and Retract

To deploy and attach the BetterBoat straps, press the button in the middle of the ratchet handle to release the tension, then pull out the strap and attach the vinyl-coated strap hook to the transom eye. Press the button on the ratchet handle and move the handle up, then release the button and work the handle back and forth to tighten the strap. To remove the strap from the boat, press the button in the handle to release the tension on the strap, then remove the hook from the transom tie-down eye, allowing the spring-loaded ratchet to ­automatically ­retract the strap into the mechanism like a venetian blind.

Tip: After the first trip with the new retractable tie-down straps, recheck the tightness of the mounting hardware and retighten if necessary.

The post Installing Retractable Transom Straps appeared first on Boating Mag.

The marine-power landscape is changing quickly, thanks mainly to advancements in motors—especially electric motors, batteries, operating software and charging equipment.

Electric marine propulsion is not new, having been pioneered more than 150 years ago by a Russian inventor, but it’s most prevalent use has been in the form of the electric trolling motor, first introduced in 1934 by Minn Kota for positioning a fishing boat for an accurate cast to cover or trolling along a weed line or drop-off that might hold fish. Today, motors are more powerful, batteries carry more power in lighter lithium packages, and many hull styles of electric-powered boats are available to accommodate the way most boaters play on the water.

This evolving technology raises new questions that boaters must answer when trying to make a power selection. Just as all horses aren’t alike, all horsepower stickers on electric motors aren’t alike. But there is a definite origin for what a horsepower is, and how it is calculated.

What Is Horsepower?

Ironically, the term and calculation for “horsepower” was defined and coined by 1700s inventor James Watt. To give his steam engines credibility and relevancy, he compared their capabilities to that of a horse.

Watt determined one horse could lift 33,000 pounds 1 foot in 1 minute; that 33,000 foot-pounds of work per minute became the standard measurement for machine power. It is the term and formula we still use today.

Watt Is That?

Watt’s success ensured the eponymous naming of another measure of power: The watt is a measure of work done over time. It is equal to one metric joule per second, which is the equivalent of .737 ft-lb per second. A watt is the power it takes to lift 100 grams or 3.6 ounces—say, an average apple—1 meter in 1 second.

Watts to Horsepower

An electric motor’s power capacity is defined in watts. Mathematically, 1 kW (1,000 watts) equals 1.34 horsepower. Some marine-propulsion ­engineers simply use that conversion formula to define the horsepower of their motor. And some round up that figure, taking a motor’s calculated horsepower of 47 to, say, 60 hp using a vague reference to “equivalent power” or “comparable power.” To be sure, electric motors have far more torque than internal combustion engines, allowing the motor to turn a larger prop, giving a fast hole-shot characteristic of a larger motor, as well as higher speeds at a similar rpm. The same can be said of diesel engines. The increased torque of a diesel power plant, versus a gas mill, is a known characteristic of diesel engines. This characteristic can be factored in when comparing engines because both express power using the same measurement: horsepower. It’s when different ways of expressing power–such as the way some electric engine manufacturers are doing it–that confusion creeps in. If there is no standard starting point for stating power output, then no standard offsets can be applied to fairly compare one engine or motor versus another. Making such fair comparisons is important when deciding how to power a new boat one is buying and when re-powering a boat one already owns.

Power from all engines and motors is also diminished when vertical rotation is converted to horizontal rotation through a gear case. With the latter design, so much power is lost through gear reduction that using the 1 kW equals 1.34 horsepower formula measured at the ­motor armature, or the IC powerhead, instead of the prop shaft, is far from accurate. (This is why internal-combustion outboards and sterndrives are rated at the prop and inboards are rated at the powerhead.) In The Nature of Boats, author Dave Gerr states that there is a 4 to 6 ­percent loss of power in gear-case bearings and ­direction change. Plus, water pickups and pumps in the lower unit have to carry cooling water to the motor, further draining power to the prop. To attain the full advantage of an electric motor’s ponies, the prop has to be directly connected to the motor’s armature, and some ­motors are not designed to do that ­efficiently.

The Way

In boating, there is only one thing that matters in horsepower—the amount of power delivered by the prop to move the boat through water. There is only one way to measure that accurately—with the prop shaft connected to a dynamometer that captures foot-pounds of energy through the power range. “Equivalent horsepower,” on the other hand, is a fabricated term that isn’t a true measurement at all. It’s usually marketing hype, or at best, the platform engineers’  estimate of how one electric motor compares to a comparable internal-combustion engine. The standard for internal-combustion outboard and sterndrive horsepower ratings is to measure that power at the prop shaft. The same must go for electric outboard motors.

Read Next: The Perks of Portable Electric Outboards

Shopping for Answers

When shopping for electric propulsion, the first mystery to unravel is finding out the true horsepower at the prop shaft. Questions of acceleration, top speed, and range are variables that are determined by motor design and its integration into different hull styles, weights, loads, and battery capacity. Motor designs bring vastly differing ­advantages and liabilities too.

The post Decoding the Horsepower Ratings of Electric Motors appeared first on Boating Mag.

The Bushnell 8x42mm waterproof and fogproof binoculars are an excellent choice for boaters who need a reliable and compact pair of binoculars. Here’s why these binoculars should be your go-to whenever you’re out on the water:

Pros

Exceptional Waterproofing: Boasting an IPX7 rating these binoculars are ready to take on the nastiest conditions and the roughest elements.

Non-Slip, Textured Rubber Housing: Non-slip soft touch rubber and easy grip texture along the sides and bridge of the binocular reduce chances of dropping even during use with one hand.

Compact Design: The folding roof prism design is more compact than a traditional porro prism design meaning these binoculars are more convenient to store.

Cons

Limited Advanced Features: These binoculars are designed as all-purpose tools, so they lack some of the advanced features found in higher-end models, such as image stabilization or rangefinding capabilities.

The SPOT Trace Theft-Alert Satellite Tracking Device is an essential tool for anyone looking to enhance the security of their valuable assets. Here’s why this compact device is worth considering:

Pros

Reliable Tracking: The SPOT Trace uses satellite technology to provide reliable tracking, even in remote areas where cellular signals are unavailable. This makes it an excellent choice for tracking boats, vehicles, and other valuable assets.

Instant Alerts: With its theft-alert capability, the device sends instant notifications via text or email whenever your asset is moved. This feature ensures you are promptly informed of any unauthorized movement, allowing for quick action.

Cons

Subscription Required: To access the tracking and alert features, a subscription to SPOT’s service is required, which adds an ongoing cost.

Battery Life: While the device is efficient, battery life may vary depending on tracking frequency and usage.

Extra 20% off with code SPORTSMAN20 — The Huk Next Level 10.5″ Shorts are a great choice for anglers who need a versatile, durable, and comfortable pair of shorts. Here’s why these shorts should be your go-to for both fishing trips and everyday wear:

Pros

Quick-Drying and Moisture-Wicking: These shorts are crafted with moisture-wicking fabric that quickly dries, making them perfect for fishing and other water-related activities.

Functional Design: The Huk Next Level Shorts are designed with multiple pockets, including a plier pocket, allowing you to keep your essential tools and gear within easy reach.

Cons

Inseam Length: The 10.5″ inseam might not be ideal for everyone. Some users may find it slightly too long or too short, depending on their personal preference and body type.

The post Boating’s Deals of the Week appeared first on Boating Mag.

My wife, daughter and I love taking the boat on day-long adventures fishing, exploring, swimming, sandbaring and enjoying the water. It’s all fun and games until someone needs to use the bathroom. On a small boat, far from shore and hours away from the marina, there is no where to go when I have to go. 

The latest generation of portable potties for boat options are clean, comfortable, safe and convenient, with features that take the hassle out of using the bathroom on the boat. 

Portable toilets for boats are as simple as a bucket and toilet seat or as complicated as a composting toilet that turns solid waste into scentless dust. At the end of the day, I remove the porta potty from the boat and safely dispose of the contents. 

A portable toilet for boats makes everyone’s experience more enjoyable. With the best portable potty for a boat, when nature calls, I have an answer.

Quicklook: 7 Top Boat Porta Potty Options

• Best for all-in-one: Dometic Sanipottie
• Best for portable or pump out: Thetford Porta Pottie MSD
• Best for bucket style: Yeti Wild Stool
• Best for small spaces: Seaflo Portable
• Best for women: Go Girl Feminine Urination Device
• Best composting toilet: Trelino Evo L
• Best battery operated: Thetford Porta Potti Curve

Which Portable Boat Toilet Is Best for You?

I have a small boat and take day trips. You have a larger boat and go on multi-day adventures. I can get away with a bucket and toilet seat. You may need a boat portable potty with more capacity and longer cycle.

Clearly, we need different portable marine toilets. To help choose the best portable potty for boat options, I searched the internet and visited my local dock shops to learn about models from top manufacturers. Here are a few of my favorites.

Dometic Sanipottie

I need an all-in-one portable potty that’s at home on the boat, in the RV, and at the campsite. The Dometic Sanipottie is a great all around toilet with an emphasis on comfort and convenience. The holding-tank-style toilet is a little more expensive than some models, but when I’m comfortably sitting on the 15-inch high seat, I don’t mind spending the extra money. When it’s time to empty the tank, the convenient two hand design with a mess-free spout and vent pays off.

Best for: All-in-one

Features:

• Rotating spout for easy emptying
• Two-step waste valve to prevent pressure build up
• Two handles on waste tank
• 15-inch height

Disadvantages:

• Non-composting
• More expensive than other porta potty for boat options
• Tie-downs sold separately

Price: $199

Thetford Porta Pottie MSD

For a larger boat and longer trips, a portable toilet that I can also empty at a pumping station saves time and mess. Thetford’s Porta Pottie MSD is a larger portable toilet best for a dedicated installation. The four-gallon water tank provides 56 flushes between refills. To go days between service, a five gallon holding tank features a sealed holding tank to control odor. When I reach a marina or RV pump out station, I empty the tank and refill the water. In between stations, I still have the option to manually empty the tank.

Best for: Portable or pump out

Features:

• MDS pump out valve
• Larger water and waste capacity
• Piston pump flush increases water flow
• Hold-down kit included

Disadvantages:

• Large and heavy for camping or small boats
• 5.5 gallon waste tank is unwieldy when full
• Narrow seat 

Price: $349.99

Wild Stool for Yeti Load Out

On my 20-foot center console, I keep a Wild Stool for Yeti Load Out for emergencies. My wife and daughter are grizzled outdoors women, but they like the convenience of a five gallon bucket with a toilet seat when nature calls. And, there have been more than a few times I was glad I had the quick and easy boat portable toilet. The wide toilet seat fits securely over the bucket lid. I add a liner inside the bucket if I’m packing out the waste. The Wild Stool will fit any standard five-gallon bucket, but I use my Yeti Load Out because the food-safe plastic is easy to clean and disinfect. 

Best for: Bucket toilet

Features:

• Wide seat
• Only five pounds
• Fits securely over bucket and liner

Disadvantages:

• Waste is not treated
• Bucket not included
• Only available for five gallon buckets

Price: $55

Seaflo Portable

In the world of portable toilets for boats, achieving the title most portable is a mark of distinction. The Seaflo Portable has the smallest water and waste capacity in the lightest boat portable toilet with a holding tank. Seaflo’s Portable is also the least expensive, so it fits my budget. I can take the Seaflo from my boat to the campsite and always have a discreet bathroom that is clean and tidy. The small cube-shaped toilet fits in my gearbox and my boat hatch. At the end of the day, the tank separates from the seat and a rotating pour out spout is easy to empty. Of course the Seaflo Portable has a convenient carry handle so I can take it anywhere. 

Best for: Small spaces

Features:

• 13.9 X 15.9 X 11.9
• Sealed holding tank
• 2.5 gallon waste tank, 3.5 gallon water tank
• Inexpensive

Disadvantages:

• Square shape isn’t most comfortable
• Single waste valve
• No level indicator

Price: $89.99

Go Girl Feminine Urination Device

Okay, I admit, I don’t have personal experience with the Go Girl Feminine Urination Device. But, the women in my life perked up when they first saw the ingenious funnel that allows girls to pee while standing up. Maybe it’s convenience, maybe it’s curiosity, but the little pink device offers the ability to use the bathroom out in the woods or on the water. 

Best for: Women

Features:

• Soft, pliable silicone
• Reusable with proper cleaning
• Pocket size
• Splash guard

Disadvantages

• Could be messy
• Not everyone is sold on the idea

Price: $14.99

Trelino Evo L

A portable composting toilet is the ultimate portable boat toilet for long trips and easy management. Using science and nature, the Trelino Evo L captures liquid waste and turns solid waste into a safe and odorless material. Separate containers for solid and liquid waste make it easier to empty the toilet. The sturdy toilet is capable of supporting 330 pounds with a wide seat for comfort and balance. 

Best for: Composting

Features:

• 1.6 gallon solid waste capacity
• 1.2 gallon liquid waste storage
• Turns solid waste into odorless material
• 10 solid feces bags included

Disadvantages

• Requires spreading drying material on solid waste
• Drying media not included

Price: $419.99

Thetford Porta Potti Curve

For the ultimate in convenience, Thetford’s Porta Potti Curve includes a battery operated flush mechanism that reminds me of home. Instead of manually pumping the flush mechanism to release water into the bowl, the Curve’s electric pump does the work. This way I know I’m using the correct amount of water to clean the toilet. The Curve includes large waste and water tanks that are easy to service. I like the comfortable oval-shaped design that is similar to a home toilet. 

Best for: Battery operated flush

Features:

• Comfortable oval shape
• Water and waste level indicators
• Integrated toilet paper holder
• 56 flushes between services
• Batteries included

Disadvantages

• No manual override 
• Tie-down kit not included
• Not as stable as others

Price: $289.99

Comparing Boating Porta Potty Types

Portable boat toilet

Portable boat toilets are a convenient, safe and hygienic way to use the bathroom when a bathroom isn’t available. These plastic toilets contain a tank for water and a tank for waste. Add chemicals to the water tank and the waste tank to control smell and make the tanks easier to clean. An adjustable pour-out spout and easy to operate vent reduce spills and smell when emptying the tank. 

Portable boat toilets come in a variety of sizes with features making them easier to use and less messy. I can take my portable boat toilet camping and RVing, or anywhere else I go.

Composting Toilet

The latest advancement in portable boat toilets is actually old technology. A composting toilet separates liquid and solid waste. Liquid goes into a sealed container. Solid waste is mixed with an aggregate like sawdust or cat litter that dries the waste into an odorless and safe material I can dump in a garbage can. 

The liquid waste container is easy to pour out. Treated solid waste is collected in a plastic bag that is quick to remove and chuck into the trash.The holding capacity is less and there’s no water tank to clean the bowl, so I have to empty and clean the composting toilet more often.

Bucket Toilet

A bucket toilet is the simplest and easiest way to manage human waste on a boat. The special-shaped toilet seat is designed to fit over the lip of a standard five gallon bucket. A plastic bag inside the bucket collects the waste. Between uses, I remove the bag, tie it closed and throw it in the garbage. I can even add a little kitty litter to absorb liquid to eliminate odor and leakage. I keep a five gallon bucket on my boat and the toilet seat fits almost anywhere, so the bucket toilet is always ready in an emergency.

Pump Out Toilet

Portable toilets are great, but cleaning and servicing are not pleasant. Boats and RVs with permanent toilets use a pump out system that makes cleaning the waste tank hassle-free. 

The best portable boat toilets also have a valve to use a pump-out station and avoid the mess and smell of manually dumping the waste tank. Just find a pump out station at a marina or RV park, attach the pump out hose to the valve and remove the waste without seeing, hearing or smelling the stuff. Use the station hose to clean out the waste tank and fill up the water tank. If I’m in a larger boat or spending more time at sea, a portable toilet with pump-out feature has greater capacity. 

Enjoy the Convenience of a Portable Toilet for Boats

Everyone enjoys the outdoors more when there is a bathroom nearby. The convenience and safety of a portable marine toilet will extend my time on the water and make my guests more comfortable. Plus, properly disposing of human waste saves the water and wildlife from pollution. With so many choices for boat porta potties, there isn’t an excuse for turning the water into a washroom.

FAQ

Ric Burnley is regional editor for Salt Water Sportsman magazine and editor of Kayak Angler magazine. When he’s not writing about fishing, Ric is out fishing in the surf, on a kayak or in his 20-foot center console.

The post What Are the Best Boat Porta Potty Toilets? appeared first on Boating Mag.

Many boaters live in the age of outboards. These engines are often considered the only choice for center-console saltwater fishing boats. Yet Volvo Penta is bent on opening boaters’ eyes to the advantages of alternative marine power for saltwater fishing, namely Volvo Penta’s diesel inboards coupled with Aquamatic Duoprop sterndrives.

To prove the point, Volvo Penta invited me to spend a few days fishing with them in the waters of Nantucket Sound, south of Chatham, Massachusetts, targeting bluefish, striped bass and false ­albacore.

We fished aboard two center-consoles, including a Solace 415CS powered by twin Volvo Penta diesels. The second center-console was a Southport 30 FE, and that was the boat which really captured my attention and admiration. 

The Southport featured a single-engine configuration. A 440 hp Volvo Penta D6 diesel was mounted amidships ­under the seat console and connected to an Aquamatic DPI sterndrive with a ­jackshaft. This completely freed up the aft cockpit to ­create a ­wide-open fishing area, with no ­outboards to ­obstruct lines. A big swim platform let us walk aft through a transom door to follow hooked fish across the stern. 

The Volvo Penta D6 is a ­super-sophisticated turbo- and super-charged common-rail inline-six cylinder engine with twin overhead cams and 5.5 liters of displacement. If the 440 hp sounds a bit light for the 11,864-pound Southport, remember that a diesel generates far more torque than an equivalent-horsepower gas outboard, and so the diesel can swing a bigger propeller—in this case, an H5 stainless-steel Duoprop set—resulting in ­solid performance numbers.

Running to and from the legendary shallow bars and roiling rips of Nantucket Sound confirmed this axiom. The Volvo diesel propelled the 30 FE to 20 mph in 4.8 seconds and 30 mph in 8.1 seconds, and it achieved a top speed of 43.1 mph at 3,800 rpm. The boat was quiet and smooth underway, with none of the loud rattle or smelly exhaust traditionally associated with diesel engines.

That strong acceleration came in handy when one of Nantucket’s infamous rogue waves reared up suddenly on our port beam. Volvo’s Jens Bering was at the wheel, and immediately turned into the wave and hammered the electronic throttle to climb the face of the 12-foot roller. Without the diesel torque and superb control offered by the Duoprop drive, not to ­mention Bering’s quick ­response, the episode may have ended ­quite differently.

Speaking of control, I was impressed with the Volvo Penta joystick system for the single diesel sterndrive. The 30 FE was the first in the US to offer this system. Steering, gear control, bow thruster and throttle are controlled ­easily with just one hand. To engage the system, you press the Docking button on the base of the joystick control. The system can also hold the boat’s speed and heading at the push of a button. 

The joystick was mounted in the armrest of the helm seat of the 30 FE, which made using it ultra-easy, intuitive and comfortable as we maneuvered to troll lures around Nantucket’s ­treacherous rips. The Aquamatic hydraulic ­transmission allows for smooth, quiet shifting and pleasantly good ­low-speed trolling functionality. Some diesels have a ­tendency to troll too fast. Not so with this system. 

I marveled over the ­optimal fuel efficiency: 2.5 mpg at 2,800 rpm and 27.9 mph, resulting in a cruising range of 359 miles based on 90 percent of its smaller 160-gallon diesel fuel tank. For comparison’s sake, an earlier test of a twin 300 hp Mercury outboard version of this boat achieved optimal efficiency of 1.6 mpg at 3,500 rpm and 26.7 mph, resulting in a cruising range of 334 miles based on 90 ­percent of its larger 232-gallon ­gasoline fuel tank. 

Read Next: Volvo Penta’s Diesel Engines and Drives

The biggest issue that ­saltwater boaters have with sterndrives is the inability to tilt the drive out of the water, as it done with outboards, while docked between trips. To prevent sterndrive corrosion in ­areas such as New England, Volvo Penta’s Arjen ­Steegstra points out a special paint process and ­Active Corrosion ­Protection system engineered for ­Aquamatic sterndrives. 

“The ACP system has been used on our IPS boats for more than 12 years,” Steegstra says. “It protects the drive from galvanic corrosion without sacrificial anodes, and offers a lot of peace of mind for our customers who boat in both ­brackish and salt water.” Of course, those who use a ­high-and-dry service, or own a boat lift, needn’t concern themselves.

In an age when filling up a boat can max out a credit card, it’s nice to know that the Volvo Penta D6 diesel DPI power ­system can save you money at the fuel dock, as well as open up the aft cockpit for better fishing access, and do it all without sacrificing ­performance or easy handling.

The post Volvo Penta D6 Diesel DPI appeared first on Boating Mag.