Spring comes with a variety of jobs for do-it-yourself boat owners. Some are expected, such as waxing the hull or painting the bottom. Others crop up as a surprise over the winter, no matter how well you put your baby to bed the previous winter. While you’ll certainly use more tools than the ones listed here in making your boat ready this spring, consider this list the “common core” of your commissioning kit.

Paint Roller

I like to roll on bottom paint. Select a low-nap (¼-inch) roller. A heavy-nap ­roller lays on too thick of a coat. Select a fabric roller because foam paint ­rollers often disintegrate when subjected to the solvents in ­antifouling paints. A ­good-quality roller frame will have a handle with internal threads, so you can attach a screw-on pole or mop handle, saving a lot of reaching.

Buffing Machine

Wax can be applied by hand. Experienced boaters prefer a buffing machine. For most boaters, one of the dual-­action oscillating types is ­probably best. The pad of these—the part that applies and removes the wax—moves in an eccentric ­motion rather than simply rotating. This helps prevent marring the finish of your boat, which can happen with rotary polishers. Though, if you are experienced with disc sanders, a rotary polisher is handled similarly and will get the job done faster.

Screwdriver

Phillips head screws and bolts will be the most common type you will find aboard a modern fiberglass boat. About the only place I see slotted fasteners anymore are on hose clamps and on the gear-case drain plugs of some outboards. (And those are now few and far between.) Have a selection of sizes handy for everything from tightening hatch hinges to adding an electrical ­connection to a bus bar.

Filter Wrench

Outboard, ­inboard or sterndrive, you will need to change filters. These may be primary or secondary fuel filters, water separators or oil filters. I have a strap wrench set with rubber straps, in two different sizes, which handles most filters that I ­encounter. Some tough-to-access filters may better be served by a filter wrench designed specifically for that filter. These usually attach to a ­ratcheting-wrench handle.

Read Next: 38 Top Make-Ready Tips for the Spring Boating Season

Nut Driver

A nut driver is like a screwdriver but with a socket-­wrench tip. They can be solid—that is, the socket is fixed to the shaft of the handle. Or they can be removable, snapping onto or sliding into a special handle. In any event, this is the tool you’ll want for working by feel, at the end of your reach in the depths of the bilge or engine room, for tightening a hose clamp.

Electrical Crimpers

Perhaps you decided to install a new stereo, light or fish finder. Or maybe you checked your bilge-pump switch prior to launch and found that it did not work. Whatever the reason, electrical repair or new installation is a common spring task for boaters. Make sure you have a terminal-connection crimper handy. I like a ratcheting crimper. Make sure it can crimp over a range of 10- to 22-gauge stranded wire. (Learn how to create proper terminal crimps in this article.)

The post Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready appeared first on Boating Mag.

Pulling the boat onto a calm beach to go ashore is a common routine while spending time on the water. If you plan to spend more than a few minutes relaxing on the beach, you’ll probably want to anchor the boat, and that’s where spike- or auger-style shore anchors can help. Drive them into terra firma above the high-water mark, and run a line to the boat to ensure that your pride and joy doesn’t drift away. You can use them to keep the boat on the beach or to anchor out away from shore, with your conventional anchor deployed seaward from the bow and the shore anchor line secured to the stern.

Right Size

Make sure the shore anchor is of sufficient size to securely anchor your boat. The Slide Anchor brand, for example, offers spike-style shore anchors in three sizes: a small model for boats to 21 feet in length, a large-model spike for boats up to 35 feet, and an extra-large anchor for ­houseboats and vessels over 35 feet.

Spike Vs. Auger

Whether you choose a spike- or auger-style shore anchor depends largely on the type of soil in which you plan to anchor. For harder shore and terrain that’s mixed with rocks, a spike is the usually the best choice because you can pierce and drive the sharp spike into the ground with a hammer. For loose soil and sand, an auger-style anchor such as the SandShark might be better because it holds more securely in soft terrain.

Integrated Drivers

An integrated driving mechanism eliminates the need to carry a separate hammer to drive in the spike anchor. Slide Anchor’s Shore Spike features a handle that serves as a slide hammer to drive the anchor into the ground and extract it when you leave. The SandShark has folding T handles that let you apply rotational force to screw in and screw out the auger. Tip: Drive the anchor in at about a 10- to 20-degree angle away from the direction of the pulling force to increase the ­anchor’s holding power.

Line Attachment

Not all shore anchors have dedicated line-attachment points, such an eye on the shaft. With those that don’t, use a clove hitch close to the ground to minimize the leverage exerted on the shore anchor. With anchors that have an eye, consider using a snap hook to attach the line from the boat. Slide Anchor’s Slide Hook lets you easily adjust the snap wherever you need it on the line from the boat.

Carrying Case

A shore anchor can be awkward to ­carry and stow aboard a boat. The sharp spike or auger can also chip the boat’s finish, damage upholstery fabric, or cause injury. To help prevent any of this, consider a carrying case for your shore anchor. For instance, the SandShark Premium SuperSport Anchor comes standard with a canvas bag. The telescoping anchor retracts, and the T handles fold down to stow conveniently inside the bag.

Corrosion Resistance

If you plan to use your shore ­anchor in a saltwater environment, think about opting for a model that features stainless-steel or ­other corrosion-resistant ­construction. Slide Anchor’s Shore Spike, for example, is ­available in galvanized steel, powder-­coated steel and stainless steel (starting at $65, $100 and $119, respectively). Each model offers increased levels of ­corrosion resistance.

Brightly Colored

Having a brightly colored shore anchor and line is about more than boat bling. It alerts shore-goers to help prevent them from stubbing their toes, scraping a shin, or tripping over the shore anchor or line. The bright color can also help you quickly spot your day camp when returning from a spin around the lake.

Read Next: How to Anchor Using Alternative Methods

Anchoring Out 

As mentioned earlier, shore anchors are helpful when you want to secure your boat away from the beach, using the shore anchor off the stern and the main anchor off the bow. Anchor bungee cords from Boat Lines & Dock Ties can also help. The line attached to the main anchor off the bow stretches twice its length, so you can drop anchor, reverse the boat to shore and turn off the motor, hop out with a line and shore anchor, and let the bungee pull the boat back away from the shore. Retrieval is just as easy. Lines come in 10-, 15- and 25-foot lengths. Nylon webbing covers come in seven colors.

The post Choosing the Right Shore Anchor appeared first on Boating Mag.

Rod-Holder Mount

Many boards, such as the ­Magma 31-inch-wide ­Bait/FilletMate ($209.99; ­westmarine.com),
come with adjustable tubes that fit inside gunwale rod holders and lock in place. Magma calls it the LeveLock because it lets you compensate for any rod-holder angle to level the board. As with nearly all cutting boards, fiddle rails help keep items from sliding or rolling into the drink. When you’re done, the tube mount folds flat against the back of the board for stowage.

Side-Mount Board

Some boards feature side mounts that attach to the vertical surface of the inwale or transom bulkhead. The Magma 12-inch-square Econo Mate cutting board ($79.99; westmarine.com) has a hinged insert that quickly attaches to a low-profile bracket with a locking pin on the boat. When you’re done cutting, pull the pin, fold back the hinged insert, and stow until next time.

Bucket Board

Let’s say you have small boat and don’t want to spend a lot of money on a board. In that case, check out the Mate Series Bucket Board (starting at $35.95; tackledirect.com). The 15-by-24-inch-long-by-½-inch-thick board mounts on top of the ubiquitous 5-gallon bucket. While it lacks fiddles, it does have drip gutters that drain to the bucket, as well as slots to hold pliers and knives, and a handy carrying handle.

Livewell Lid

If you have a free-standing livewell on deck, as do many West Coast boating anglers, think about a cutting board that also serves as a lid for the tank. Kodiak, which offers aftermarket free-standing livewells, also sells cutting-board lids for its various models. The ½-inch-thick PF-32C ($41.99; tackledirect.com) fits on top of all ­Kodiak livewells. It provides a convenient surface for dicing up some guacamole or cutting bait.

Tackle-Center Board

Many center-console boats have tackle and rigging centers in the leaning-post module abaft the helm seats, but some lack boards for cutting and rigging baits. A good solution to this problem is the Boat Outfitters Tilt-Out cutting board ($439.09; boatoutfitters.com). The 6-by-23 ½-inch board requires a cutout in the back of the leaning post to install. On the plus side, it folds back flush to the bulkhead when you’re done with it.

Read Next: Fillet Knives Tested and Compared

Dockside Table

OK, maybe you want to wait to return to port to fillet your mahi or walleye. That calls for a dockside cutting board, such as the Tournament Series Dock Cleaning Station from Magma ($449.99; westmarine.com). It features polished stainless-steel legs and a 47 ½-by-19-inch table that folds down to drain water and create extra room when not in use. There’s an optional ­cover, and a side station holds tools and a drink while you celebrate your catch.

The post Top Marine Cutting Boards appeared first on Boating Mag.

If it’s been a while since you bought new tow vehicle, you might be surprised by the many built-in advancements in trailering technology. New tow tech ranges from integrated weight scales and adaptive suspensions to systems that automatically back up your truck to hitch up your trailer. Here are a few examples to look for.

Onboard Scale

There’s no more guessing about the tongue weight of your boat trailer with an onboard scale. The system available in the 2023 Ford F-150 pickup, for example, can estimate your tongue weight on a conventional hitch and show the number through the dash ­display or a code in the smart taillights. It will advise if the tongue weight is too high or too low.

Hitch Up With AI

Ford’s Pro Trailer Hitch Assist available for the Ford F-Series pickup uses artificial intelligence, including computer vision and machine learning, to automatically back up and align a truck’s hitch ball to a trailer coupler with the push of a button. It automatically controls the truck’s speed, steering and braking to make hitching up an easy, single-handed task.

Backup Assistance

Features such as Ram Truck’s Trailer Reverse Steering Control with a knob (instead of the wheel) on the dash let you steer in reverse while viewing the trailer in the center-console display (instead of the mirrors). Then there’s Ford’s optional Pro Backup ­Assist. Rotate a knob to indicate how much the system should turn the trailer, then it automatically steers the truck and trailer the desired amount.

What a View!

Camera ­systems significantly improve situational awareness for trailer boaters. The 2023 Chevy Silverado pickup, for example, is available with eight cameras that offer 15 different views around your rig to keep an eye on both your tow vehicle and trailer boat while hitching up, on the highway, at the launch ramp, or just backing into your driveway.

Trailer Light Diagnostics

Remember when you had to walk around your boat trailer to check the lights while ­someone in the truck activated the brakes, turn signals and running lights? That’s a thing of the past with systems such as Ford’s Smart Trailer Tow Connector, which informs you if any of the running or brake/turn-indicator lights are malfunctioning, telling you exactly which one needs ­attention.

Tow/Haul Mode

When the Tow/Haul mode is combined with today’s 6- to 10-speed ­automatic transmissions, it maximizes towing power and efficiency. The Toyota Tundra’s Tow/Haul mode, for instance, can hold lower gears longer when accelerating, decelerating, and on long grades while trailering. Tow/Haul mode will also pick the best gear to keep the engine revving in its power band and lock out overdrive gears. It also adds engine braking to help in slowing your rig while towing.

Adaptive Suspension Systems

Some of today’s trucks feature systems that compensate for the weight of a ­trailer to prevent the rear suspension from sagging. For instance, the Ram’s Active-Level ­Four-Corner Air Suspension uses air pressure to automatically level the truck to its natural ride height when the system detects the load of a trailer on the hitch. In another example, Ford’s available Adaptive Suspension monitors loading, vehicle speed, road conditions, and steering to adjust shock absorber stiffness and damping for enhanced vehicle control when towing.

The post Towing-Vehicle Tech That Assists Boaters appeared first on Boating Mag.

Buying a life jacket? You may run across two different types of labels. The big difference? Traditional labels identified the life jacket’s type: I, II, III or V. The newer labels provide a bold number, which indicates its buoyancy in newtons (1 newton (N) equals 0.225 pounds). Newtons are used so that life-jacket buyers in Canada, Europe and the US rate life jackets the same way. Find out what other information these new labels tell boating consumers.

Graphics One

Graphic representations—aka icons—replace words on the new labels to make the labeling less reliant on language and thus more universally accessible. For instance, the new labels use a graphic of a victim in the water. The farther from shore the swimmer is shown and the more squiggly the lines, the rougher the water the life jacket is intended for. A hand indicates if help is nearby. 

Graphics Two

The new arrows also feature a curved or circular arrow graphic. This informs the buyer or wearer of the life jacket’s ability to turn an unconscious or disabled swimmer face-up. The universally ­accepted circle with a line (the “no” ­symbol) overlaying the arrow indicates it lacks turning power. The “no” symbol comes into play more on the new life-­jacket ­labels.

Graphics Three

So that consumers and wearers can determine what uses the life jacket is suitable for, icons indicate a towrope handle, a PWC, a towed tube, a whitewater canoe, etc. If there is a slashed circle over one or more of the icons, the life jacket is not suitable for participating in those activities.

Read Next: Picking the Right Type of Life Jacket

Other Changes

The third party that conducted the testing—for example, Underwriters Laboratories—is clearly noted. The US Coast Guard ­approval number will also be noted. On a separate label or a separate section of the label, buyers and wearers will also find care ­i­nstructions for the life jacket.

Label Legality

This article aims to help boat owners buy a life jacket. Will you need to replace your existing life jackets with new ones bearing the new label? No. Life ­jackets with the old or new ­labels both ­qualify with carriage ­compliance in the US and Canada. Of course, life jackets still must be in good condition and of the correct size and quantity for the crew aboard your boat.

Accessibility

We wrote this article to help boat owners buy life jackets. But many wearers are guests, charter parties or tour-boat passengers with little knowledge of boats and ­boating safety. Here and abroad, many might not read English. The new labels harmonize US labeling with those of Canada and ­Europe, using icons to make user information more universally accessible.

Children’s Life Jackets

Learn how to properly size a life jacket for a child by visiting boatingmag.com/story/gear/choosing-life-jackets-for-kids.

Buoyancy Needed

According to the US Coast Guard, most adults need 7 to 12 pounds—31 to 53 newtons—of buoyancy to stay afloat. This varies by percentage of body fat and body shape. For perspective, the Mustang MIT 70 inflatable—the life jacket worn by Boating editors while on the water—offers 15.7 pounds of buoyancy (70 N).

The post How to Properly Read New Life-Jacket Labels appeared first on Boating Mag.

If you’re shopping for a boat that can accommodate your family, your fishing trips, and your comfort needs, a dual console boat might be the perfect choice for you. When looking for a dual console boat, it’s important to consider features such as depth in the cockpit, stowaway space for inflatables and watersports gear, fishing functionality and a wide bow seating area. You want a deep cockpit area because it makes it stable and easy to get your footing while fishing, and provides safety for small children.

An amazing feature is the wraparound windshield for extra protection in choppy waters. Boats of this nature offer the easy convenience of a changing room on board with a portable head or a flushing toilet. Dual consoles have the perfect seating configuration of a bowrider but the rugged durability of an inshore/offshore fishing boat which makes it great to operate in both areas. These ideal features are perfect for fishing, cruising comfort, and provide ample space for all your activities.

The post What to Look For in a Dual Console Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

Wearing a life jacket is a smart choice for any boater but mandatory for all personal watercraft riders. Coast Guard-approved Type III models work best. The vest-style design is easy to take on and off, comfortable, and available in a wide variety of colors and graphic patterns. But while a basic Type III life jacket will always do the job, the latest crop of PWC-specific models do it better, tailoring design and features to the way individual riders use their craft. Here’s how they compare.

Recreational

The ­average recreational rider will be well-served by the classic ski vest, a sleeveless, front-entry design that closes with buckled straps or a straps-and-zipper combo. A nylon or neoprene exterior typically covers flotation foam for comfort and to protect the foam from wear and sun exposure. Nylon is affordable, dries quickly, and is the cooler of the materials in the hot summer months. Because neoprene is more form-­fitting, it often has a more comfortable fit, but it’s also slightly more expensive and can feel warmer on hotter days. Lighter shades of neoprene are also more prone to staining from sunscreen. Extras? A D-ring sewn into the front bottom of the vest is a great place to attach clip-style engine-cutoff safety lanyards.

Performance

Vests designed for performance-minded riders often trade a front closure for a side-entry design that maintains uninterrupted protection across the front of the vest to protect the torso from impact, whether with the handlebars, other parts of the craft, or even the water in a high-speed fall. Closures are likewise moved to the side of the vest. Armholes are typically cut wider to allow for greater arm and shoulder flexibility. Segmented or hinged flotation blocks, thicker at the vest’s front, enhance the vest’s protection and flexibility. Straps are tucked below a layer of material across the front panel to prevent snagging on the ­handlebars or controls.

Read Next: Personal Watercraft Handling and Control Gets More Responsive

Touring and Fishing

Long-distance touring riders or those taking a PWC into remote locations don’t necessarily require a different style of life jacket as much as one that can hold more stuff. Look for numerous pockets at the front of the vest to keep items like a handheld VHF radio, whistle, your phone and other gear handy. Some models even feature mounts for a GoPro-style action camera to relive your adventures later. Look for segmented foam to conform more to your body and offer greater comfort during extended hours in the saddle. Larger armholes will likewise offer more freedom of movement and less potential for chafing. A simple loop at the back of the neck area will anchor goggles or sunglasses straps to prevent loss while underway.

Size Matters

Avoid a one-size-fits-most solution. Life jackets should be sized to the rider so that they offer the necessary buoyancy and won’t slip over the head. Close all buckles and zippers, making sure the entry point of the vest comes together without significant gaps or overlaps. Before taking to the water, perform a fit check by raising your arms overhead and having another person grasp the jacket at the shoulders and lift upward. A properly sized vest should not rise over the face or slip over your head.

The post PWC-Specific Life Jackets appeared first on Boating Mag.

A long-held adage maintains that a marine fixed-mount VHF radio is only as good as the antenna with which you match it. Translation: Don’t spare the dollars. Major brands such as AirWave, Digital, Glomex and Shakespeare offer VHF antenna models in a range of prices to suit different budgets, but you want the highest-end model you can afford. The benefits of high-end models are more durable components, improved signal-to-strength ratio for more efficient broadcasting, and thicker fiberglass outer sheaths for a longer service life. Within each price-point category, there are also various types of VHF antennas to accommodate different boat styles and communication needs. Let’s look at some of the factors to consider when buying a VHF antenna.

Height

The higher or taller the antenna, the ­greater your range. That’s because VHF waves travel in what is known as line of sight, and the higher the antenna, the farther it can see over the horizon. With this mind, why do companies offer antennas ranging from 3 to 23 feet? Much depends on the boat and its communication needs. A sport-fishing yacht needs to communicate at greater distances when offshore than a family runabout cruising the Intracoastal ­Waterway. Bigger boats can also accommodate taller antennas. Mounting antennas as high as possible—such as on the hardtop—has the same effect in boosting VHF range.

Gain

Measured in decibels, ­antenna gain represents the VHF transmission pattern, and it can also affect range. ­Antennas vary from 3 dB for a 4-foot model to 9 dB for a 12- to 23-footer. Generally speaking, the higher the decibels, the greater the range, but with a caveat. Higher gains broadcast at a narrower pattern than lower gains. So, as a boat rolls and pitches, higher gains intermittently angle downward into the water or upward to the sky rather than toward the horizon. This reduces range. As a consequence, smaller craft prone to roll and pitch are better off with a medium gain. The most popular for boats ranging from 20 to 35 feet in length is an 8-foot, 6 ­dB antenna that provides less range than 9 dB, but it is also less susceptible to the ­effects of pitch and roll. 

Cable Considerations

The standard PL-259 plug that connects the antenna’s coaxial cable to the back of a radio is relatively large in diameter. To make installation easier, these connectors are usually installed after the cable is routed through rigging tubes, pipes and bulkheads. Traditionally, the coaxial wires need to be soldered to the plug. Lower-­priced antennas still have these, but higher-end models now feature screw-on plugs that dispense with soldering. Some antennas also feature a connector at or close to the base of the antenna that lets you easily remove or replace the antenna without the ­hassle of snaking a new cable through the rigging. 

Read Next: Common Mistakes When Using a VHF Radio

Mounts

Ratchet-style antenna mounts are popular add-ons for boaters who need to clear low bridges—be it on the water or while trailering to and from the launch ramp. The female ferrule at the base of the antennas screws directly to the threaded mount. Want to get boujee? Consider Taco Marine’s electric mount that raises and lowers an antenna at the push of a button so you don’t have to climb on the hardtop to perform this task.

Colors

In the past, ­fiberglass VHF antennas were all white, but brands such as AirWave, Digital and Shakespeare now offer black antennas in case boaters want to complement a ­particular color scheme.

The post How to Choose the Right VHF Antenna appeared first on Boating Mag.

First off, let’s get our terminology set. Manufacturers call these marine grills, but they’re portable boat barbecues to most of us. Some charcoal versions exist, but today, 1-pound bottles of propane represent a neater and more convenient energy source for onboard cooking. Plus, you won’t risk damage to your boat from hot charcoal embers.

You’ll find a wide range of grill styles, sizes and accessories. Let’s look at factors to consider while shopping. 

Kettle Grills

Magma still offers its original ­Marine Kettle series (starting at $249.99 for a gas model). These are best used with one of Magma’s mounting options for a secure fit with boat rails or rod holders because the shape makes these grills a bit unstable on a table aboard a rocking boat.

Rectangular Grills

Rectangular barbecues have gained popularity because they’re easier to stow and prove secure on a table. Foldout legs on models of Kuuma’s Stow N’ Go series (starting at $199.99) and Magma’s Cabo grills (starting at $249.99) let you set up on a cutting board that can double for tailgating. Hinges keep the lids from going overboard. There are also mounts that take advantage of rails, rod holders and more.

Finish

Finishes such as Magma’s 18-8 mirror-polished stainless steel resists corrosion. It also cleans up nicely when you’re done cooking.

Ignition

Many marine grills have built-in igniters to light the propane, and some do not. If you choose the latter, bring along a butane lighter. It’s an item that’s easy to forget when getting ready for a boating weekend. We speak from experience on this.

Thermometers

You can never gauge the grill temperature by ­guessing, and that’s why we like built-in thermometers on the hood, whether grilling in the backyard or the boat. ­Magma’s Newport, Catalina and Monterey marine barbecues all have this feature.

Size

Choose the size based on how many people you plan to serve and the stowage room ­available. ­Magma’s grills range from 133 square inches (the 13-inch-diameter Kettle) to 420 square inches (the 12-by-24-inch Monterey). Kuuma cooking grates range from 125 to 316 square inches, and the Elite series grills feature upper warming racks.

Mounts

Consider how you will use your grill on the boat, then review the various mounting systems to see which might work for you. Kuuma, for example, offers four different rail mounts, ­including one design ­specially for the square railings on pontoon boats. Magma has mounts that insert in a gunwale rod holder with a LeveLock All-Angle bracket that lets you easily make sure the barbecue is as level as possible. There’s also one mount from Magma that uses the popular Scotty rod-holder base.

Read Next: 25 Great Nautical Beers

Covers

Canvas covers protect your portable marine grill from salt spray and bird droppings when not in use and keep it from getting scratched while stowed in a locker. Magma and ­Kuuma make covers specially for each of their models, and Magma offers different colors to match your boat canvas. These can also serve as tote bags to make the grills easier to carry. Just make sure the barbecue has completely cooled down before putting on the cover.

The post Portable Marine Barbecues appeared first on Boating Mag.

Cable throttle and shift controls still dominate the boating market for outboard, inboard and sterndrive engines. Cables from brands such as Dometic Marine (previously SeaStar) and Uflex provide smooth, reliable service for years, even decades, but they might eventually wear out, corrode or otherwise lose optimal functionality. Here’s what to look for when deciding on replacement throttle and shift cables for your boat.

When to Replace

“The control lever should move smoothly and freely,” says David Wolfe, product and support manager for Dometic Marine, whose cables dominate the US boating market. “­Typically, if the movement is stiff, sticky or causes clunking when shifting, it’s time to replace the cable.”

Also, if the lever does not repeat a shift command (such as forward, neutral or reverse) at the same position or angle every time, it often means the cable is wearing out and requires replacement, Wolfe advises.

Rather than replace just the one suspect cable, boaters are advised to replace both the throttle and shift cables at the same time. One faltering cable serves as a signal that the other might not be too far behind. 

Regular or Premium

There are two grades of ­engine control cables: standard and premium versions. ­Dometic calls its premium series Xtreme, while Uflex calls its the Mach ­series. Uflex also offers standard cables, but Dometic is ­gradually phasing out its standard version, which uses a solid metal core. However, you will still find some ­under the SeaStar brand in retail distribution.

The premium versions are more expensive. In ­Dometic’s case, the Xtreme cables cost about 15 to 20 percent more than its standard cables, but they feature splined cores. The ridges of the splined core glide back and forth in a lubricated HDPE liner that allows for smoother control than standard cables and without sacrificing ­precision in shifting and throttle control, Wolfe says.  

Performance Bend

Premium cables offer ­another advantage: the ability to bend more tightly than standard cables. The Xtreme cables, for instance, offer a 4-inch bend radius, while the tightest turn a standard cable can tolerate is 8 inches. 

 Here’s the upshot: While a premium cable costs more, it will turn tighter corners in the rigging tube, transom and elsewhere than a standard cable can accommodate and still ­provide optimal throttle and shift performance.

Original vs. Aftermarket

Major marine engine brands such as Honda, Mercury, Suzuki, Volvo Penta and ­Yamaha offer control cables as original equipment. With this in mind, is it smarter to source cables from the ­engine brand? 

“Almost all marine engine manufacturers use Dometic’s Xtreme series cables,” Wolfe says. So, whether you buy OEM or Xtreme cables, you are getting the same thing. 

“Honda, Suzuki, Tohatsu, Volvo and Yamaha use the Xtreme CCX633 style,” he points out. “Mercury and MerCruiser use the CCX179 (Gen1) and CCX189 (Gen II) series. Evinrude and Johnson outboards match up with the CCX205 series.”

Determining Lengths

Cables must be the ­proper length—long enough to reach from the throttle and shift controls to the engine, but not excessively long. In retrofits, use the same length as the cable you are replacing. The length is normally stamped on the jacket of the cable, ­usually (but not always) on the helm end. “You can also find the style of the cable stamped in white here,” Wolfe says. If you can’t find the size on the old cable (sometimes these wear off), measure it from tip to tip. 

In situations where there are no existing cables, measure from the helm control along an unobstructed path to the connection points at the engine or shift point. Then round up to the nearest foot for ordering the new cable. Aftermarket ­cables are sold in foot increments up to 30 feet, with longer cables sold in only even-foot increments. 

For outboards, throttle and shift cables are the same length, while the throttle and shift cables for inboard and sterndrive system differ in length because one goes to the engine and the other to the transmission or drive. 

Route it Right

Routing the cables from the helm control to the motor—or vice versa—might be as simple as taping the ends of the old cables to the new ones and pulling them from one end to the other. If you can’t use the old cables, use a pull cord or an electrician’s fish tape.

Typically, control ­cables run through a rigging tube belowdecks or along the starboard side of the boat. Once the cables are installed, it’s important to avoid binding them too tightly with zip ties, Wolfe advises. “Keep them loose and avoid binding them together with onboard wires or other cables,” he says. “This will help ensure the smoothest possible shifting and throttle action.”

Outboard Loop

For outboards, Wolfe recommends creating a 4-foot loop in the cables before they connect to the motor. This prevents binding when the outboard turns from side to side and trims up and down. Take this into account when measuring for new cables.

Many of today’s outboards, however, use transom rigging tubes that do not readily allow for a big loop in the cables. In these cases, make sure the rigging tube is long enough to leave a fair amount of slack to accommodate the control ­cables as the outboard rotates, trims and tilts, Wolfe says.

Correct Connectors

To ensure you have the proper cable connectors for your propulsion system, you can reuse the old connectors for the helm control, engine and transmission, assuming they are in good working condition, Wolfe says. Companies such as Dometic and Uflex—as well as the engine brands—offer the proper connectors if you choose to replace them. 

In either case, wait until after the cables are routed before installing any connectors. This streamlines the cables and makes it easier to pull them through crowded rigging tubes and access ports.

Read Next: Installing an Outboard Rigging Tube

• A long-wearing HDPE liner stays lubed for life for smooth performance.
• Oil-tempered lay wires provide strength and smooth performance, and protect against the elements.
• A 0.34-inch protective HDPE outer jacket guards the Xtreme cables against chafing, salt and water intrusion.

The post Choosing the Right Throttle and Shift Cables for Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.