As waters grow crowded with boating anglers, captains need to be aware of lines fished at distances from the boat. The converse also holds true: Anglers should ­respect and avoid interfering with general boating activities.  

The key for both lies in recognizing these situations and steering wide berths. When it comes to angling activities, here are four situations you’re likely to encounter. 

Kite-Fishing

Kite-fishing is a saltwater technique used primarily to present live baits on the surface downwind from the boat. Kites can also be used to troll lures such as flying fish imitations at the ­water’s surface. The key element to remember here is that the fishing lines hang roughly vertically from the kite lines flown far from the boat.

The Atlantic Ocean off South Florida represents a hotbed for kite-fishing for sailfish, mahi and other species, so be ­particularly aware when cruising through these waters. If you see a drifting boat such as a center-console or sport-fisher, search downwind for one or more kites flying high. They are usually bright colors and might have big helium balloons attached. Multiple fishing lines will be hanging from the kite line. For everyone’s sake, you don’t want run into them, so steer well wide of the kites.

LongLine Trollers

New saltwater fishing techniques emerge each season, and one that has hit West Coast waters is longline trolling with high-speed lures such as the Nomad Design Mad Macks. Highly effective for big Pacific bluefin tuna, it calls for trolling with 100 to 300 yards of line out behind a boat running between 10 and 14 knots. 

In crowded waters, this can become problematic when another boat crosses behind a high-speed troller and wraps the longline in its running gear. So while ­cruising offshore, keep an eye out for boats moving much faster than normal trolling speeds. If you spot one, look for one or more lines streaming astern. If it’s crossing in front of you, slow down and let it proceed well past you. Alternately, give it a very wide berth astern—at least 300 yards—before ­resuming your original course. 

Planer Boards

On some lakes and rivers, slow-trolling with planer boards is a popular technique among walleye and salmon anglers. With this method, a fishing line is attached to a floating board that angles out to the side, where fish are less likely to be spooked by the boat. Anglers might fish four or more lines, each on a planer board as far as 40 to 60 feet abeam of the boat.

Issues arise when another boat comes in a little too close. Whether just putting along or running at speed, you can snag the planer-­board lines and wrap them in the propeller. The trick here is to look closely for the brightly colored boards, which are often red, ­yellow or white, out to the sides of a slowly moving fishing boat or even a pontoon. Give the troller a wide berth. In addition, slowing down to no-wake speed is a courtesy I like to extend whenever I encounter boaters engaged in fishing activities.

Read Next: Practice Proper Fishing Etiquette

Hooked Fish

Big, powerful fish rarely cooperate once they’re hooked. Some, such as tuna, fight in the vertical, but others, such as marlin, sailfish and tarpon, run out and away, peeling lots of line off reels. The problem is, other nearby boats, not realizing a boat is hooked up, sometimes drive between the angler and the fish, cutting the line. Heated ­confrontations usually ensue.

The solution is to pay close attention to other boats in the area and what they are doing before approaching. A pair of binoculars can help in assessing the situation. An angler pulling on a bent rod serves as a big tipoff. Shift your gaze in the direction that the rod is bent to determine where and how far out the line extends, knowing that sometimes there’s a “belly” in the line, so the rod might not be pointed directly toward the fish. 

With billfish and tarpon, you may well see the fish jumping and splashing at the surface. Whether you see the fish or not, steer well wide of the angling action and give the other boat a chance to land the prize without entangling or cutting the line with your prop.

The post Navigating Safely Around Anglers appeared first on Boating Mag.

Anchoring the boat is one of the most intimidating skills to learn for a boat operator. Securing a heavy boat with a rope, chain and anchor in strong current, heavy wind, and crushing waves presents the opportunity for catastrophic failure. A tangled chain, snagged rope or dragged anchor can quickly put the boat and crew in danger. 

And retrieving the anchor presents even more dangers. Pulling the anchor free puts tons of pressure on both the anchor rope and boat. But mostly pulling in the anchor line puts a lot of pressure on bones and muscles. 

Using an electric windlass anchor system to manage the rope, chain and anchor removes some of the work from the process, but doesn’t eliminate the potential for damage and injury. Learning how to use an electric windlass anchor system takes the intimidation out of anchoring the boat. 

What Is an Electric Windlass?

An electric windlass anchor system consists of a motor that turns a wheel to retrieve and deploy the anchor line and chain, called the anchor rode. Unlike a winch, which uses a large drum to reel in line, the windless wheel grips the line and feeds it into an anchor-rode locker. The windless takes less space but a winch is stronger. 

If used or installed incorrectly, a powerful motor turning a metal wheel at high speed under the pressure of a heavy anchor line is a recipe for disaster. But with some safety steps and an understanding of how the system works, a windlass can make boat anchoring significantly easier. 

System Preparation

Like any mechanical device on a boat, the anchor, windlass and rode require regular maintenance and inspection. The anchor is handy for mooring the boat at sea, and essential for securing the boat if the motor loses power. 

Before each trip, I check the anchor rode and electrical connections, and then test the windlass controls by running a few feet of rode through the gypsy. One of most common failure points is the anchor rope or chain jamming the anchor windlass jaws. Before operating the windlass anchor system, be sure the anchor rope isn’t tangled or snagged in the anchor locker. 

Double check the chain stopper pin and windlass brake to keep the anchor rope from accidentally deploying. When I’m using the anchor windlass, I never leave it unattended. A small problem with an electric boat anchor system only takes a moment to turn into a big problem.

Deploying the Anchor

The first step to anchoring is selecting an appropriate location. Before releasing the anchor, check the area is clear of obstructions and other boats and away from navigation channels and hazards. Consider how the current and wind will affect the boat as it swings on the anchor. Then, check the fish finder and chart to determine the bottom composition and choose the correct type of anchor for soft mud, sand or rocks.

The key to safely deploying the anchor is checking the rope, chain and all connections. Frayed rope, rusty chain and faulty knots and links could cause a failure while deploying the anchor. If the anchor rode breaks while at anchor, the boat is set adrift out of control. 

When using an electric windlass to deploy the anchor, it’s crucial to verify that the rope and chain move freely through the windlass and lie loosely in the anchor locker. Inspect the windlass for rope or chain that’s misaligned or pinched in the gypsy.

To deploy the anchor rope, unhook the chain stopper and use the anchor windlass controls to lower the chain and anchor rope. The best electric windlass anchor systems have control switches at the boat’s helm near the windlass. This allows the windlass operator to watch the line and control the windlass to prevent tangles and jams.

Some windlass systems have a free fall setting that allows the anchor to drop without resistance. This is a great feature for anglers looking to precisely anchor over structure. However, the free fall mode will not control the speed the rope moves through the windlass, making it even more important to observe the line and chain for potential tangles.

Once the anchor hits bottom, the rate the rope leaves the anchor locker slows down or goes slack. The formula for anchor scope is seven feet of line for every foot of depth. To properly hold bottom in 10 feet of water, the anchor requires 70 feet of scope. This formula varies depending on the type of anchor, bottom composition and the weather and water conditions. In heavy current and high wind over soft bottom, let out more line to ensure the anchor sticks securely.

Once the anchor is secure and the boat is sitting safely, tie the anchor rope to a bow cleat by wrapping the rope a full turn around the base of the cleat and then crossing the bitter end of the rope around the cleat horns. Never use the windlass brake to secure the rope. The weight of the boat and pressure of the current and wind could cause the rope to jam or slip.

Retrieving the Anchor in Nine Steps

The windlass pays for itself when it’s time to retrieve the anchor. Instead of muscling the anchor rope into the boat, the windlass motor does the hard work. Just like deploying the anchor, the powerful motor and heavy anchor rope offer potential for damage or injury. Here are the steps you should follow to avoid any danger:

1. Before untying the anchor rope from the bow cleat, start the boat motor. If the windlass motor fails or the rope jams or breaks, the motor controls the boat until the problem is solved. 

2. With one person at the windlass controls and another person at the helm, unwrap the rope from the cleat horns. I leave the rope wrapped around the cleat base to manually control the rope. 

3. Bump the boat into gear and motor ahead slowly. With pressure off the line, I unwrap the rope from the cleat and release it to move through the bow bow roller.

4. Then, I use the windlass controls to retrieve the line. Maintain communication between the windlass operator and the boat operator. Move the boat ahead to feed line through the windlass. Never use the windlass to pull the boat or break free the anchor. If the anchor is stuck in the bottom, tie the rope off to the bow cleat and use the boat motor to pull the anchor free. 

5. Once the anchor is free of the bottom, take the boat out of gear or motor ahead very slowly and retrieve the rest of the line. 

6. While retrieving line, observe the line feeding into the anchor locker. Pile the line loosely in the anchor locker so it can dry and it is ready to redeploy.

7. When the anchor chain reaches the windlass, slow the retrieve to ensure the rope to chain link passes through the windlass. If the splice sticks in the gypsy, deploy a few inches of rope and realign the chain in the gypsy. 

8. When the anchor reaches the surface of the water, slow the retrieve to allow the anchor to lodge in the bow roller without swinging and damaging the boat.

9. To prevent the anchor from accidentally deploying, insert the locking pin through the chain and reverse the windlass a couple inches to take pressure off the mechanism. 

Safety Considerations

Using a windlass makes anchoring easier but not simpler. The mechanism takes the work out of lowering and raising the anchor, but the power of the mechanism increases the risk of damage or injury. Always keep in mind that the windlass is a very powerful machine capable of crushing bones and ripping skin. 

Here are some important tips to follow while using an electric windlass:

• Keep hands, feet, long hair and dangling clothes away from the spinning windlass gypsy. Also, keep away from the rope as it feeds through the windlass. 
• If you need to clear rope in the anchor locker or free a jam in the windlass, stop the motor before moving in to work. The windlass operator needs to observe the rope and chain and control the speed of the windlass to maintain proper working pressure on the gypsy and keep the line and chain feeding smoothly through the windlass. 
• Never allow the windlass brake to hold the boat on anchor or secure the anchor rope while underway. Always cleat off the anchor line while the anchor is deployed and be sure to pin the anchor chain while the boat is underway. The windlass brake is only designed to stop the rope and chain, if the brake fails, the anchor could deploy accidentally. 
• Always insert the locking pin when the anchor is stowed and tie off the anchor rope when the anchor is deployed. And stay clear and alert when the windlass is operating. 
• To keep the windlass running properly and further avoid damage or injury, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintaining the moving parts and electrical connections. 
• To extend the life of the anchor rode and anchor, allow the rope to dry in a well ventilated anchor locker and wash and clean the chain and anchor between uses. 

Explore Your Electric Windlass Anchor Options

For small boats a windlass is a convenience, for large boats a power anchor system is a necessity. On any boat, a windlass makes the anchor easier and safer to deploy and retrieve. 

A vertical windlass is more powerful but takes up more space. A horizontal windlass requires less deck space, but is more difficult to install. A windlass with a low-profile gypsy and a drum allows the motor to handle heavy rope and chain. The best windlass rope and chain packages use a spliced connection to keep the windlass working correctly. 

FAQ

What size windlass do I need?

Choosing the correct size windlass depends on the size and weight of the boat and the expected anchoring conditions. Manufacturer guidelines help match the size of the windlass to the boat’s length and weight. However, if you plan to anchor in heavy current, big waves and high wind, using a larger windlass will provide more power to match the anchoring conditions. Another consideration is the physical size of the windlass. Check to make sure the windlass base will fit in the mounting location and the anchor locker will accommodate the anchor rode. 

Do you have to tie off a windlass anchor?

Yes. The windlass is used to deploy and retrieve the anchor rope. It should not be used to pull the boat or secure the anchor. Use the boat motor to propel the boat towards the anchor and use a cleat to secure the anchor rope. When the anchor is retracted, a locking pin keeps it in place so it doesn’t accidentally deploy.

How do I choose an anchor windlass?

Two choices for an anchor windlass: vertical and horizontal. The name refers to the gypsy axle running horizontally or vertically to the boat’s bow. A vertical windlass has the drum or gypsy mounted above deck and the motor and electrical connections protected below deck. A vertical windlass has more power and uses less energy but requires a larger anchor locker. A horizontal windlass, like a Lewmar windlass, has the gypsy and motor mounted above deck. Consult the boat manufacturer’s recommendations to choose a vertical or horizontal windlass.

The post How to Use an Electric Windlass Anchor System appeared first on Boating Mag.

When your boat’s propeller or running gear tangles with line or netting, you are dead in the water. Techniques for clearing a fouled prop vary with conditions, the type of power and the experience of your crew.

“Ghost pot,” uttered Capt. Patrick Cline.

Hurtling offshore aboard one of three big, fast boats we’d arranged with Suzuki for a ­recent photo shoot, the ­center engine of our trip-equipped CC entangled with the line from a crab trap that was no longer attached to its float. Likely, another boater ran it over and cut it off. 

Engines stopped, Cline climbed onto the platform, leaned out between the engines, and attacked the ­monumental mess. Tall, fit, carrying a ­serrated knife and wearing a life jacket, he proved himself able and properly prepared. In a few minutes, 20 pounds of ­multicolored tangle came aboard, and we throttled away.

A different crew, in different conditions and  with different power may have required a different solution. What’s the best way to clear a fouled prop? The best answer is: “It depends.” 

First, try untangling the prop without cutting. Shift into neutral, turn off the engines, and try to grab the end of the line with a boat hook. I’ve pulled some wrapped lines right off this way. A helper  can turn an inboard’s shaft by hand (or with a strap wrench) while you pull. 

Failing that, don a life jacket, and lean overboard only if conditions permit. Many inboard propellers will be out of reach. For that reason, Sailor’s Solutions ­offers the Hooknife ($84, ­sailorssolutions.com). This is a V-shaped knife that comes attached to an adjustable-length handle. With it, you might be able to cut away the fouled line. Also, you can fit your inboard shaft with a line cutter such as the Piranha (retmarine.com), Shaft Shark (ab-marine.com) or Spurs (spursmarine.com).

Read Next: DIY Propeller Repairs

In a pinch, you can use duct tape (approved use No. 435) to attach a knife to a mop handle or boat hook and extend your reach under or ­behind the boat. A serrated blade, or a hacksaw with a coarse tooth count—such as 14 to 16 TPI—works best. Diving deeper, ­full-frame hacksaws might prove less than ideal in the tight spaces between the prop and hull of an inboard or prop and ­anti-ventilation plate of an outboard or sterndrive. A ­hacksaw frame that allows the blade to extend in front of it is easier to maneuver. So is a “stab saw.” Perhaps most maneuverable is a hacksaw blade with wraps of duct tape creating a handle on one end (approved use No. 476). Naturally, you’d need to be able to reach the tangle. See above.

I don’t recommend ­going overboard because a boat will often drift faster than we can swim. Tethering oneself to the boat, with a helper ­on board tending the line, could prove helpful if you act against this advice.

The answer might be that you need to call a tow. Remember: If the gear ain’t clear, stay right here! Even if you clear the prop, you’ll want to make sure that the seals are intact. Running without that fact verified can cost you more than a tow.

Stay safe.

The post Dealing With a Fouled Propeller appeared first on Boating Mag.

The boat just kept coming. I can still vividly recall the scene, even though it happened over 20 years ago. We were taking a break during a photo shoot in the Florida Keys, and we’d just sat down at an outdoor table at a dockside restaurant overlooking a long channel running out to deeper waters. Where the channel snaked closer to dry land, distinguished by mangroves on either side, it was marked by giant no-wake signs. 

We all watched as a far-off ­go-fast, engines roaring, ran full throttle down the center of the channel, headed toward shore. It blazed past the no-wake signs and didn’t let up until it nearly hit the dock, throwing a huge wake into the boats tied up at the restaurant. We were about to give the driver an earful when he jumped up and yelled, “Please, someone call an ambulance!”

One of the people in the boat had suffered a medical incident and sat slumped over in his seat, unconscious. The boat’s VHF wasn’t working and this preceded the days of ubiquitous cellphone use, so the driver had no choice but to break the no-wake rule to save his friend’s life.

In this case, not only was the driver justified, but he also was legally allowed to do so, at least in Florida, which has a provision in statute 379.2431 that reads, “A person may engage in any activity otherwise prohibited by this ­subsection or any rule or ordinance adopted pursuant to this subsection if the activity is reasonably necessary in order to prevent the loss of human life or a vessel in ­distress due to weather conditions or other ­reasonably unforeseen ­circumstances, or in order to render emergency assistance to ­persons or a vessel in distress.”

Looking back, we never did find out what happened to the guy, but it brought to mind three scenarios where the best thing to do might be to break the rules. 

Medical Emergency

If someone on your boat is in medical danger, your first course of action should be to alert authorities, over your VHF, where it applies, or by calling 911. If they can’t get to you and your best course of action is to run to land, you should alert them to where you are heading and notify them that you intend to speed through no-wake zones. You should also broadcast this over VHF on both Channel 16 and the general recreational channels to alert others of your intent.

Unsafe Weather

I have personally broken no-wake rules and other rules of the road a couple of times after being surprised on the water by sudden thunderstorms. In those cases, with lightning crashing all around us, the threat of electrocution superseded the danger of running on plane in a no-wake zone, and we ran as safely as we could at speed to the safety of the marina. In this case too, the best course of action is to notify both authorities and the general public of your intent over the VHF.

Read Next: What to Do if Your Boat’s Engine Dies

Accident Avoidance

Whether on plane or in idle, under power or at rest, every boat on the water is subject to the navigational rules of the road. These rules dictate which vessel gives way and which one must maintain its course and speed—stands on—under a number of circumstances. If you are in the wrong, both the law and your insurance provider are not on your side. The one caveat, which is stated in the Coast Guard’s rules for coastal and inland navigation, is a special circumstance where it is necessary to avoid immediate danger. In other words, if you are the stand-on boat and the approaching vessel doesn’t realize it, do ­whatever it takes to avoid collision. 

The post Is It Ever Okay to Break Boating Rules? appeared first on Boating Mag.

This VHF radio exchange between a boat skipper and the marine-towing-service dispatcher still sticks in my mind. 

“Hurry!” the boater pleaded. “My motor died, and we’re drifting toward the rocks!”

“Do you have an anchor?” the dispatcher calmly asked.

“Yes,” the breathless boater ­replied.

“Please put your anchor down to keep from drifting any farther, and one of our boats will be there as soon as possible,” the dispatcher responded.

“Oh, OK!” the boater said with a hint of relief in his voice. “I didn’t even think of that. Thanks.”

Crew Safety

In ­emergency boating situations, obvious ­solutions can sometimes become obfuscated amid panic and chaos. That’s why it’s important to think through potential emergencies such as loss of power well ahead of time and plan a course of action in the event this occurs. You might even run practice drills. Preparedness and forethought promote a rational, calm and quick response to emergencies.  

In the lack of preparedness, the first instinct is often an attempt to fix the issue or immediately call for help. But prudent seamanship dictates that first and foremost, you should focus on making sure your crew remains safe. And that usually depends on keeping the boat out of harm’s way.

How you secure the boat might well depend on the situation, sea conditions, and other factors such as anchoring options and the availability of alternate onboard propulsion systems. Here are five ways keep your crew safe while you explore a fix or call for a tow when the main propulsion system fails.

Anchor Down

Given the appropriate depth, drop the anchor as soon as you lose power, even if there’s plenty of distance between your position and potential hazards. Current and wind can push the boat along at a surprising clip, closing the distance with alarming speed, especially if you have your head down trying to resuscitate the motor and not paying attention to approaching threats.

This, of course, hinges on ­having ground tackle that’s in good condition, sized properly, and ready to deploy at a moment’s notice. Regularly inspect your anchor and rode. Also avoid ­stowing ground tackle deep inside a ­locker where it’s difficult to extract quickly in an emergency situation.

Pole-style shallow-water anchors represent yet another way to keep a boat in position. Found on many bay boats, flats skiffs and bass boats, these devices rely on articulating arms and fiberglass spikes stabbed into the lake or sea bed. As the name implies, a shallow-water anchor works only in depths to about 7 to 10 feet, and it loses effectiveness when big waves prevail.

Sea Anchor

If you lose power out at sea, the water might prove too deep for ground tackle, negating the possibility of anchoring up. At the same time, drifting in heavy seas can threaten safety. For example, if the boat tends to drift with the stern to the waves, seas might broach the transom and swamp the boat.

In this situation, it is a good idea to deploy a sea anchor from a bow cleat. Working like an underwater parachute, a sea anchor deployed in this manner tends to keep the bow riding into the waves, resulting in a drift that’s less likely to swamp the boat. If the boat tends to drift beam to the seas, a sea anchor deployed from the bow can eliminate the uncomfortable, violent and ­potentially dangerous roll.

Make sure your sea anchor and its line are sufficiently sized for your boat. Also ensure that there’s plenty of line to keep the sea ­anchor submerged as the bow pitches in heavy seas.

Read Next: How To Install an Auxiliary Outboard Engine

Auxiliary Power

Another option to keep in mind is auxiliary power in the event that main power conks out. This often comes in the form of a smaller “kicker” motor, such as a 9.9 to 25 hp outboard on a transom bracket. A kicker can push you away from danger and back home, albeit at a slow pace.

Yet, lowering the kicker, priming the engine, and getting it started can still take time. Also there’s no guarantee that a seldom-used auxiliary outboard will immediately start, especially if the issue affecting the big motor(s) is lack of fuel. So it’s still a good idea to first deploy an anchor before you begin fussing about with a kicker.

Kickers aren’t the only form of backup power. Many boats today have bow-mounted trolling motors powered by a separate battery bank from the main engine(s). Depending on current, wind and sea conditions, these can hold a boat in position in spot-lock mode or, just as importantly, ­propel you away from danger.

The post What to Do if Your Boat’s Engine Dies appeared first on Boating Mag.

Safety, comfort and efficiency rank as the top three promises of good seamanship. Your boat’s trim—both fore and aft, and across the beam—affects this trinity. In turn, you can affect boat trim to better deliver on the promises of seamanship. 

There might be trade-offs in ­using these techniques, and I am not implying that trim alone addresses all ills that can threaten safety, comfort and efficiency. Hopefully, the following examples spark you to extrapolate and apply the principle of trim as a tool you can use when boating.

Head seas rank high in many discussions regarding comfort aboard boats. We can “smooth out the bumps” for a given speed by trimming down the bow. You can do so by applying the trim tabs. Or you can bring the bow down with outboards or sterndrives by trimming in the drives or engines (or trimming “down,” as some like to say). The jolts will be less shocking. But speed and fuel efficiency will also decrease, due to increased drag. Furthermore, you might get a wetter ride with the bow trimmed down because the hull will break water farther forward. Too much down-trim combined with too much speed can even create a safety hazard because your boat might start to bow-steer or take green water over the bow. These reasons mandate adjusting trim to refine ride quality incrementally. That way, you can balance the trade-offs.

When running down-sea, it’s beneficial to keep the bow up. ­Remember, trim tabs can only bring the bow down; they do not lift the bow. Outboard and sterndrive boats can trim out the powerplants to lift the bow. (An inboard boat’s shaft angle creates a natural bow-up attitude.) Keeping the bow up helps inhibit a boat from getting pushed into the trough ahead of a wave. Should that happen, bow steering, a broach (turning sideways to the seas), or even a capsize could result. Often, I find myself riding the trim, maintaining ­moderate trim as I approach the wave, adding a little more up-trim as I crest it, and then trimming back down a bit leaving the trough and approaching the back of the next roller. This allows the boat to react better to the energy input from the wave while helping to maximize engine thrust when it’s most needed—climbing the back of a wave.

Read Next: Key Tips for Crew Communication

Another scenario where trim can create ride comfort is when operating a boat with a deep-V hull in a stiff crosswind. For reasons of physics beyond the scope of this article, a V-hull on plane tends to lean into a stiff beam wind. The list creates discomfort because the boat is coming down on the hull flats rather than the V. By trimming down the side of the boat opposite the lean, the list can be eliminated. We can use one trim tab, trim one engine, or move crew and gear around to do so. This phenomenon is often exacerbated by lean induced by prop torque. Indeed, prop torque itself often causes a boat to list. In that case, trimming out the drive or engine can mitigate the lean. Why? Simply put, the twisting effect of the prop changes with changes in drive trim.

There exists a multitude of specific boat-power-conditions scenarios in which changing the boat’s trim will change the ­safety, comfort and efficiency of the ride. With experience and time, you’ll learn to dial in your boat’s ride, quickly and confidently ­balancing the variables to best suit the moment.

The post Trimming Your Boat for Safety, Comfort and Efficiency appeared first on Boating Mag.

One sunny afternoon, I decided to take a solo pontoon boat trip from my home on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay to the Eastern Shore, about an hourlong 10-nautical–mile trip that I have successfully completed many times in the past. Since land was in sight for the trip, I planned to head out with land to port and return with land to starboard.

It ended up being more complicated than that.

About halfway through the trip, I realized that it was nearing dinner time. Since I hadn’t told my wife—or anybody else—where I was going, I decided to turn around and head back home.

Things took a turn as I turned the boat. Visibility had dropped, and what shadows of land I could see all looked the same. I had not installed a GPS aboard the boat or even a -compass. Furthermore, a huge power plant, with coal stacks tall and lit, which had always served as a navigation aid for me in the past, had recently been razed. In the course of turning the boat 180 degrees to head home, I realized I was lost.

Read Next: Lessons for Boating in Fog

Fortunately, I had my cellphone with me. And I had a good signal! I also had a charging cable. I plugged it in so that there was no fear of running out of battery. And I had installed the Know Wake and Argo apps on the phone. The phone would be my salvation leading me home.

Still, I made some mistakes that I will not make again. I will always let someone else know where I am going and when I am expected back. Also, I will make sure to take extra water and snacks aboard the boat. I recommend that boaters make sure their phone is charged, can be recharged aboard, and practice with a navigation app so that using it is -second nature if needed.

My boating experience turned into an education for me and, I hope, for others.

Joe Maranto
Middle River, Maryland

[A decent compass costs approximately $100. Also, visit boatingmag.com/how-to/filing-float-plan/. Finally, take Mr. Maranto’s excellent suggestions. —Ed.] 

Wanted: Your Stories
Share your boating mistakes and mishaps so that your fellow boaters might learn from your experience. Send us your first-person accounts, including what went wrong, what you’d do differently, your name and your city, to editor@boatingmag.com and use “ILAB” in the subject line. If your story is selected for publication, we’ll send you a $100 West Marine Gift Card!”

The post I Learned About Boating From This: Turned the Boat and Got Turned Around appeared first on Boating Mag.

We had gotten off to our typical early-morning start on the water, anticipating catching a few striped bass during the fall run. As often happens along the coast of Long Island, New York, the brisk autumn air interacting with the warmer coastal water created a thick, all-encompassing fog.

No matter, we had our radar and chart plotter going and could “see” where we were on the water and what was around us. Then suddenly, without warning, our entire electronics suite went dead. Enveloped in the thick fog, it seemed near impossible to get our bearings. Fortunately, we were not too far outside the inlet, which helped us rely on our natural senses to find our way. The inlet happened to be marked with a bell buoy, so we used the chime to orient us. Also, we could hear the sound of surf fishermen’s 4WD vehicles making their way along the beach. We idled toward the buoy, and once we were able to finally see it, made our way slowly and safely back through the inlet.

With all the technological advancements available to the modern boater, the pastime of boating has never been safer. But every boater will be doing themselves a favor if they learn to rely on their God-given senses on the water.

Eyes

Our vision is the most obvious sense we all rely on to make decisions on the water. In fact, despite the prevalence of satellites tracking storms and sea conditions globally, commercial shipping still relies on voluntary firsthand reports from ships’ crews through the National Weather Service’s Voluntary Observing Ship (VOS) program. Beyond eyeballing the weather, our vision can help us in many different ways.

Diesel exhaust from passing commercial vessels, for example, can help determine the direction of the prevailing wind. And if the smoke seems to be drooping rather than rising from its stack, that could indicate a low-­pressure system and impending bad weather.

When navigating in shallow water, use your eyes to look for breaking waves, wind ripples or current seams to gauge depth changes. Also look for color changes in the water that could indicate a transition from the channel to shallower water. And finally, if you see a bird standing in the water, don’t go that way.

Ears

As noted with the bell buoy and the beach sounds, your ears can help you safely navigate when your vision is limited. They can also help you keep alert for signs of trouble on board your boat. Changes in your engine noise, creaks, rattles, rumbles and thuds can all indicate that something’s wrong with your boat. Whether at the dock or at sea, if you hear your bilge pump constantly activate, start searching for a reason why. There could be an open seacock, a leaky through-hull or a breach causing you to take on water.

Nose

The most obvious use here for most boaters is smelling gasoline. If you smell gas in your cockpit or in the bilge when you open a hatch, there could be a leaky hose or valve in your fuel system. You need to find the source and repair it immediately to prevent an accidental explosion or boat fire. Your sense of smell can also help in other, more positive ways. For instance, if you’re fishing in the Northeast and you pick up a scent similar to cantaloupe, that could mean a school of bluefish is nearby. Oil floating to the surface from chomped baitfish ­create the aroma, sometimes also resulting in a slick that you can see as well.

Read Next: Lessons for Boating in Fog

Touch

Your hands are your first line of defense to search for loose fittings, wires, hose clamps and more. You can feel for flexing and soft spots in your deck and transom, as well as for handholds and rails that have come loose from their mounts. One of the most important ways you can use touch, though, is to sense irregular vibrations. Feel for vibrations that could indicate issues such as a misaligned shaft, a bent prop, or an engine in need of some maintenance.

Taste

One of my colleagues has used his sense of taste to determine if water in the bilge is salty, meaning it’s a leak, or if it’s leftover fresh water from a washdown. But by doing this, you run the risk of tasting battery acid, oil or some other chemical you’d rather not taste. So, don’t get carried away. Just a taste from your fingertip to the tip of your tongue will tell the story.

The post Use Your Senses to Stay Safe While Boating appeared first on Boating Mag.

Article at a Glance

• Float plans are age-old and proven in emergency situations.
• Filing a float plan can be as easy as telling a trusted friend or family member about your boating plans.
• Float plans should include important information like vessel type, name and color, passenger names, trip purpose and itinerary, and more.

What is a Float Plan?

A float plan is the information that you leave with a responsible party that details your destination, purpose, and timing. It also includes a description of your boat and details the number of people aboard. The purpose of your trip–fishing, whale watching, cruising to such-and-such marina, etc.- should also be included. If you do not return and/or call in at the predetermined time, the party to whom you entrusted the float plan can alert authorities. 

What Should Be Included in a Float Plan?

• Vessel Information: Include the make, model, length, color and type of propulsion. Also list distinguishing features, such as outriggers, a tower, or a towed dinghy.
• Trip Itinerary: Note your trip’s start and end locations, as well as locations you are likely to stop at or pass close to along the way.
• Trip Timing: List the start and end times to reach the destination. Also, list estimated times of passing/ visiting prominent other locations. Projected course lines (from a GPS or manually plotted) can be helpful.
• Trip Purpose: If fishing, say so, as anglers might tend to veer off course towards a reef or fishing ground. Cruisers may often ‘ sidetrack’ to view some unique landmark, etc. This type of info can prove valuable to rescue agencies.
• Crew/Passenger Information: List the names, ages and number of people who will be aboard your boat for the trip. Also include phone numbers for each. Include yourself!
• Emergency Contacts: This can be a spouse or family.You should also include boating, sailing or fishing friends who may have in-depth knowledge of your on-water habits.
• Equipment and Supplies: List relevant safety equipment as required by law, in addition to non-required items such as EPIRBs, a life raft (describe it in detail tool kits, extra clothing and food rations, etc.

3 Reasons to Create a Float Plan

Suppose your boat is disabled or sinks, or you have a medical emergency such as a heart attack or a bad fall, without time to make a radio SOS call. How long will it take for someone to notice you have not returned? Would they know where you were headed so that they could advise potential rescuers where to look? A float plan is created and filed for just these reasons.

1. Safety and Emergency Preparedness: Even knowledgeable, well-equipped boaters may not have time to make an SOS call or activate a safety beacon should an emergency occur.
2. Search and Rescue Operations: The detailed info in a float plan will get rescuers to you much more quickly than without it. Remember: Hours, minutes, and even seconds often count in emergencies.
3. Peace of Mind: Both you, your loved ones, and the loved ones of any guests aboard can achieve greater peace of mind and security when you file a float plan.

Who Should Create a Float Plan?

A float plan should be created by the person responsible for and in charge of the trip, usually the boat’s owner. A float plan is a good idea for any trip, but it is especially advised for longer trips or trips on larger bodies of water. Your trip does not need to be out of sight of land to warrant a float plan, as tragedy can occur in a second.

What kind of boaters prepare float plans?

• Boaters who want to know rescuers will begin searching if they do not arrive on time should file a float plan,
• Boaters who make trips of long duration, even if within sight of land, should file a float plan.
• Boaters who make trips on large lakes or bays and the open sea should file a float plan.
• Any boater should, at the least, verbally inform a responsible party about any boating outing. 

When and How to Create a Float Plan

A float plan should be created before heading on a trip and filed with the responsible party, who can be family, friend, marina owner, harbormaster, etc. A float plan can be created on paper by using the information in this article. Alternatively, many boating safety agencies offer downloadable blank float plans. Pro tip: fill in the info that doesn’t change, such as your vessel details and phone numbers, and save to your computer (or print out a stack) so you only need to fill in trip and passenger details. Finally, the U.S. Coast Guard and other public and private entities offer apps that allow you to electronically create and share a float plan.    

When to Create a Float Plan

A float plan should always be created in advance of your boat trip. This provides you time to ensure the person or organization you are charging with this responsibility gets it (and accepts it). Many boaters visit the same destinations again and again and may have pre-filled float plans for these trips on which they simply change the dates, times, and the number and names of crew members. In still other cases, a trip may be of indistinct timing, destination, or both, and it may be good to discuss any nuance with the responsible party.

How to Create a Float Plan

Creating a float plan is easy. You can manually write down a description of your boat, making sure to include its size, color, name, power type, and any distinguishing features (like a tower). List where you will be departing from and note the time you expect to return. Be sure to include your contact information. Also, note the number of people you will have aboard, their names, and their contact information. Just an old-fashioned note, really.

Of course, you can do this on a computer and print it out; use a pre-made template like this one from the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary: floatplancentral.cgaux.org/download/USCGFloatPlan.pdf

Yet another option is to use the mobile apps provided by the U.S. Coast Guard, Mercury Marine and others, that let you create a float plan and share it electronically. 

What to Do with a Float Plan

A float plan is “filed” – that is given – to a responsible person, party or entity. It may be a friend or relative. It may be a marina owner. It may be an official entity like law enforcement or a rescue agency such as the Coast Guard. In selecting who to file the float plan with, consideration should be given to those who will understand the great responsibility and who know how to act on it by notifying authorities if you don’t arrive according to plan or check in by phone, radio or other means that your plans changed en route. It is critical that you report to the responsible party as well. Both must take the float plan seriously.

Closing Remarks & FAQs:

There may be some embarrassment associated with creating float plans. After all, the chances of getting into a boating emergency are quite low. But, if one does get into an emergency, the risks to life are high. We should never be embarrassed about concern for the lives of our friends and family aboard our boat.

In closing, note that many electronic apps now make it easy to create and share a float plan. Check out the U.S. Coast Guard App, Mercury Marine’s Vessel View App, and the Navionics App, just to name a few.

Are float plans formal documents?

No.

Do you have to file float plans with authorities or the U.S. Coast Guard?

No. Filing a float plan is a voluntary action.

How does a float plan enhance boating safety?

By ensuring a responsible party alerts authorities if you are overdue without word on a boat trip.

Can a float plan aid in faster response during emergencies?

Yes, it can, by narrowing down the search area to a specific route and destination.

Is it necessary to create a float plan for short boating trips?

If the water is rough or the weather is foul a float plan makes sense even for short trips.

Should solo boaters always create a float plan?

Absolutely, yes. Especially, since if a solo boater gets injured they will not have a companion aboard to help them.

Are there online tools available for creating float plans?

Yes, there are many online float plan tools.  On this page you can download a blank float plan in pdf format from the US Coast Guard.

Should a boater inform someone when they deviate from the planned route in the float plan?

Yes. Boaters can use phone, text, marine radio, or even the messaging function of rescue beacons to communicate a change in itinerary back to the part with whom the float plan was filed.

The post What to Include in a Float Plan & When to File One appeared first on Boating Mag.

In the summer of 1982, I dated a beautiful young lifeguard. She lived 16 miles across Long Island Sound in Mamaroneck, New York. Out of nowhere, we parted ways. I left her place (hungry and broke) and headed home to Cold Spring Harbor, New York, in my 13-foot Boston Whaler. I motored out past the last pilings and entered open water. A pesky low-pressure system created east-northeast wind gusts to 27 knots. Seas funneled straight down the Sound. I heard waves breaking over the loud whine of the dinghy motor, which was running for all it was worth. The roar of the original 40 Merc was long gone. (My treasured boat was earning its keep with a little eggbeater.) Conditions worsened. I -quartered serious head seas. A boating classroom course and years of scouting had taught me seamanship and survival skills for life.

With Execution Rocks 5 miles ahead, steep breakers forced me to find refuge leeward of East Island on Long Island. I anchored, swam to shore, and hitchhiked home before dark. Overnight, the wind and surf had shifted to the north. The worn anchor line broke, and the outboard sheared off along the mount. The boat smashed into rocks, flipped over and was virtually destroyed.

Read Next: I Learned About Boating From This: Getting Back in the Boat

Overconfidence, ignorance, the pursuit of pleasure, and subtle incapacitation brought on by stress caused this accident. First, I shouldn’t have gone out. I knew better. Also, I should have been prepared with a VHF radio, foul-weather gear, and an anchor rode in good working order.

I never found the missing outboard motor but recovered the lost anchor, now prominently displayed out back for good luck.

Donald Boulton
Beryl, Utah

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The post I Learned About Boating From This: The Cost of Overconfidence appeared first on Boating Mag.