Having the right tool for the job—it’s a metaphor commonly applied to all sorts of self-improvement genres. On a boat, where problems are bound by length, beam and draft, having the right tool to fix the problem is often a literal requirement. 

In my decades as a yacht captain, I’ve come to rely on my tool bag that stores easily, yet it always has what’s needed to make repairs and keep going, instead of limping home.

Keep It Together

Organized tools are easy to find and harder to misplace. My Custom LeatherCraft 1130 tool backpack was discontinued, unfortunately. CLC’s model 1134 is the closest replacement, although it lacks the fold-out tool row. To keep wrenches in line, I write their sizes with a Sharpie on a simple canvas tool roll.

Wrenches & Sockets

Carrying wrenches and sockets in both metric and imperial sizes gets bulky and heavy, and ­adjustable wrenches don’t fit into tight places. Many repairs require two of the same-size wrench, adding heft. Fortunately, several sizes, such as 5/8 inch and 16 mm, are nearly identical. Others are close, but while 18 mm works in place of 11/16, the reverse is not true—11/16 is too tight.

For all you’ll need and nothing more, start with a set of combination wrenches from 7 mm to 19 mm, and then add 1/4, 5/16, 11/32, and 3/8 inch, 10 mm (you’ll want two of those), 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 (buy two), 3/4, 13/16, and 7/8 inch. I add a double-sided 15/16- and 1-inch open-end wrench and two adjustable wrenches—one 10 inch (with an extra-wide 15/16-inch opening) and another 6 inch with a rubber handle for working near battery terminals. A 10-inch aluminum pipe wrench comes in handy. Pawn shops offer single sizes inexpensively, and note that 18 mm and 3/32-inch sizes are often needed yet skipped in consumer-grade sets of these.

Deep-well sockets often fit when standard-depth won’t. In 3/8-inch drive, you’ll want these sizes: 3/8, 10 mm, 7/16, 12 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 9/16, 15 mm, 16 mm, 17 mm, 18 mm, 3/4, and 13/16. My “stubby” 3/8-drive ratchet with an articulating “flex-head” fits into tight places, while a 3/8-drive “wobble” extension accommodates difficult angles. I also carry 1/4-inch drive sockets down to 5 mm and 3/16 inch.

Screwdrivers & ­Pliers

Most jobs fall within No. 0, No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 Philips and 1/8-, 3/16-, and 1/4-inch slotted screwdrivers. Tight places often require 1/4-inch or No. 2 Philips shortened “stubby” or right-angle “offset” screwdrivers. Nut drivers in 1/4 inch, 5/16, and 7 mm won’t slip off hose clamps like a slotted screwdriver does, particularly in cramped bilges. A ratcheting screwdriver with hex-shank twist drill bits makes a serviceable hand drill, and it also turns Torx (star-drive) bits in sizes T10, T15, T20, T27 and T30, as well as No. 1 through No. 3 Robertson (square-drive). Ball-end Allen (hex) wrenches, in metric and imperial sizes, angle into tight places ordinary hex wrenches can’t.

Self-adjusting 10-inch Robo Grip pliers are easier to use than similar arc-joint pliers. I also carry small 7-inch and large ­12-inch arc-joint pliers, along with 10-inch slip-joint and 6-inch needle-nose pliers. Vice-Grips in both 10-inch curved-jaw and 6-inch long-nose varieties, along with wire cutters, wire strippers and a crimping tool, round out my set.

Clean, Cut, Scrape or Pick

A stiff putty knife, sharpened with a file, removes old gaskets without damaging parts or knuckles. Slide a “hose hook” (mine is actually a cotter-pin puller) around the inside of a hose to break it free. A hacksaw with extra blades, two stainless-steel wire brushes (shorten long wooden handles to fit into the bag), dental picks, and a snap-blade utility knife round out sharp and pointy necessities.

Read Next: Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready

Miscellaneous

A telescoping mirror and a small, bright flashlight help you see what you’re fixing, and a strong telescoping retrieval magnet recovers dropped tools. A 16-ounce dead-blow hammer loosens what’s stuck or nudges what isn’t, while screw extractors remove stripped screws. A bicycle air pump pressurizes hydraulic steering reservoirs and freshwater expansion tanks. 

A tape measure, 6-inch stainless-steel machinist rule, and plastic calipers help get the right replacement parts. ­Thexton thread pitch gauges include holes that ­identify screw sizes. You’ll also want small tubes of thread-lock (the blue semipermanent ­variety), pipe-thread sealant, ­gasket-maker compound, Teflon lube, and superglue, along with electrical tape and tie wraps.

And the next time you catch a Forbes article or TED Talk about “the right tool for the job,” remember, it isn’t always a ­metaphor.

Wrench-Size Guide

These wrenches pull double duty:

• 7/16 ≥ 11 mm
• 13 mm ≥ 1/2
• 16 mm ≥ 5/8
• 18 mm ≥ 11/16
• 3/4 ≥ 19 mm
• 21 mm ≥ 13/16 (13/16 works on 20 mm too)
• 7/8 ≥ 22
• 15/16 ≥ 23

The post Choosing the Right Tools for Boat Repairs appeared first on Boating Mag.

After 15 years, the non-slip paint on my boat deck looked faded and dirty. But I put off repainting until the non skid failed and I started slipping and sliding on the wet deck. While a freshly painted boat deck looks great, providing a non-slip surface is the first step in maintaining a safe boat. 

There are several steps to repainting a boat deck. Taping off the area, cleaning the deck, sanding the old non skid paint, cleaning again, painting, drying, adding another coat of paint, drying and clean-up are all essential to getting the job done correctly. 

But the most important step happened before I began the project. Choosing the best marine deck anti-skid paint for my boat deck is directly related to the quality of the final result. With so many choices for non skid paint to match my needs, I took a deep dive into the best boat deck paint for my boat. Here is what I learned.

Quicklook: 6 Top Boat Non Skid Deck Paint Options

• Best for Long-lasting Results: Pettit Paint EZ Deck
• Best for Impact Resistance: Pettit Paint Tuff Coat Rubberized 
• Best Textured Non Skid Deck Paint: KiwiGrip Non-skid
• Best Two Part Deck Paint: Interlux Perfection Two Part
• Best Budget Deck Paint: Interlux Interdeck
• Best Aggregate: Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD

Best Non Skid Boat Deck Paint

Repainting the non-slip surfaces on the boat deck is a big job. Before picking an anti-skid paint, consider how often you use your boat, how much you have to spend, where you work on the boat and what equipment you have to get the job done. 

For easy application, choose a one-part paint system, or to match the boat’s color and provide a more durable surface, go with a two-part paint and non skid additive. To make sense of the choices, I narrowed down my list to the following best non skid marine deck paints for my boat.

Pettit Paint EZ Deck

Best for: Long-lasting results

The simplest way to achieve a durable and good-looking non skid deck surface is using a one-part deck paint with aggregate. Pettit Paint EZ Deck is the top performing deck anti-skid paint for easy application and fade resistance. After the deck surface is prepared, simply stir the EZ Deck to distribute the aggregate and apply three to four coats with a ⅜ inch nap roller. 

Features:

• One step process
• Ultraviolet filters prevent color fade
• Premixed aggregate

Disadvantages:

• Only available in three colors
• For best results, add EZPoxy Paint Enhancer

Price: $182.99/gallon

Pettit Paint Tuff Coat Rubberized 

Best for: Impact resistance

For high-traffic areas and hard use, rubberized deck paint offers a thicker and more durable surface. Often found on commercial vessels, rubberized marine deck paints are flexible, thick and super grippy. Pettit Paint’s Tuff Coat Rubberized non skid deck paint is a one-step paint created by cross-linking urethanes, acrylics, co-polymers and recycled rubber granules to maximize durability and performance. 

I like the rubber granules as the aggregate to maintain consistent texture and prevent wear and tear. The thick coat of rubber paint also provides shock absorption. Non-toxic and water based, Tuff Coat is easy to apply with a roller or brush and easy to clean up with soap and water.

Features:

• Thick material hides surface imperfections
• Submersible
• Shock absorbing rubber aggregate 

Disadvantages:

• Aggressive grip not comfortable on bare feet
• Matte finish only
• Requires primer

Price: $154.99/gallon

KiwiGrip Non-Skid System

Best for: Textured non skid deck paint

Most non-slip deck paint uses an abrasive additive to provide grip on slippery decks. Another option is using a thick deck paint and a special paint roller to dimple the paint for a non skid texture. KiwiGrip Non-Skid System doesn’t require mixing the aggregate with the paint and is softer on bare feet. Textured marine deck paint improves durability because as the paint wears it doesn’t release the aggregate. By changing the application process, customize the depth of the texture for more grip.

Features:

• One component
• Durable
• No aggregate

Disadvantages:

• Requires a special roller or brush (available with the paint system)

Price: $47.99/liter

Interlux Perfection Two-Part Polyurethane Topside

Best for: Two-part non-slip deck paint

For a professional-looking non skid deck, a two-part paint offers the best color, finish and durability. Interlux Perfection Two Part Polyurethane Topside is packaged with the base and catalyst pre-measured for the simplest way for do-it-yourself boat owners to achieve professional results. Two-part paint is chemical, detergent and fuel resistant for the longest lasting deck coverage. Achieve the perfect non-slip surface by choosing the size and amount of aggregate to mix with the base paint. 

Features:

• Wide range of color choices
• Customizable aggregate
• High gloss finish

Disadvantages:

• Expensive
• Requires more prep and post work
• Best with paint sprayer

Price: $140.99/quart

Interlux Interdeck

Best for: Budget deck paint

An easy-to-apply anti-slip deck paint that won’t break the budget, Interlux Interdeck combines an advanced polyurethane with a fine grit aggregate for a one-step application. Spray, brush or use a roller to apply one to two coats of the deck paint. Interlux Interdeck has a low-sheen finish to prevent blinding sun glare off the deck.  

Features:

• Inexpensive
• Apply with sprayer, roller or brush
• Low sheen to reduce glare

Disadvantages:

• Only available in five colors
• Fine grit only
• No UV inhibitors

Price: $77.99/quart

Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD

Best for: Adding aggregate to two-part polyurethane

Two-part polyurethane paint offers the most options for color, finish and durability. By adding a separate aggregate, two-part paints can be customized for grip. Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD is a clear aggregate added to two-part paints to increase grip in slippery surfaces. The advanced synthetic clear aggregate won’t change color as the paint wears for years of reliable grip. Available in fine and coarse grit, choose the size of the aggregate to match the application. Use fine grit in low-traffic areas and heavier grit in spaces requiring more traction.

Features:

• Doesn’t fade or separate from paint
• Mix with any two-part polyurethane paint
• Available in fine or coarse grit for custom application

Disadvantages:

• Requires measuring and mixing
• Expensive

Price: $127.99

Common Types of Non Skid Boat Deck Paint

Do-it-yourself boat owners have several choices for easy-to-use non-slip deck paint that will maintain a safe, colorful deck coating for years of heavy use. For high traffic areas requiring chemical and fuel resistance, choose a rubberized or textured paint. 

To create a smoother texture with customizable grip, polyurethane paints with added aggregate look great and prevent slipping. Polyurethane deck paint with fine aggregate is the easiest to clean after a day on the water. Read ‘How to Repair Gelcoat’ to learn about touching up or repainting the topcoat on your boat.

One Part Polyurethane

Easy to prepare the surface. Easy to apply with a roller or brush. No mixing required. 

Two-Part Polyurethane 

Most durable and best looking topcoat paint. Two part polyurethanes are great for matching the boat’s color and finish. Requires mixing base with catalyst and adding the grippy aggregate. The professional-looking result is worth the extra effort.  

Rubberized

Thick and durable, rubberized deck coating is non-slip and protects the surface from damage. Heavy rubberized deck paint also covers up imperfections in the surface, so it’s great for repainting a non-slip deck. Add aggregate to the rubber paint or use a rubberized paint with non skid particles already added.

Textured 

Textured deck paint creates a non-slip surface with a rough surface texture. Textured anti-slip paints don’t require adding or mixing aggregates. Textured paints are more durable than aggregate paints because they wear evenly without exposing the aggregate embedded in the paint.

Non Skid Coatings

By adding non skid coatings to base paint, I can customize the color, finish and grit to match my needs. In a high-traffic area, I can use a coarse grit aggregate. For areas that don’t see as much action, I can apply a finer grit. I can even choose silica, wood, rubber or synthetic aggregate to adjust the size, shape and traction of the aggregate.

Protect Yourself With the Right Boat Deck Paint

When it’s time to repaint the non-slip surfaces on my boat, I have a wide range of paints to choose from. Depending on the surface, how I use my boat, my budget and my skills and tools, I have easy-to-use paints and high-quality, customizable systems. For the best look and performance, a two-part polyurethane with added aggregate produces the most professional and durable finished product. Sacrificing some color and finish choices allows me to use a one-step non-slip deck paint with aggregate mixed into the single-part paint. 

For the best durability and traction, rubberized paint not only provides solid traction but it absorbs shock and protects the deck surface. Or, I can save time and energy and create a non skid surface by using a textured paint and a special paint roller. 

Not only does a fresh coat of non-slip deck paint look great, but preventing slips and falls on wet surfaces is the first step in avoiding serious injuries. Once I realized how easy it is to repaint my deck, I was more confident to tackle this project on my own. 

FAQ

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It’s midsummer. Time for numerous maintenance tasks that will help ensure continued happy boating. Neglecting some of these might ruin your next trip. Neglecting others might cost you more dearly. You won’t necessarily need to haul the boat to perform these tasks, but a mask and snorkel can prove helpful if the boat’s kept in the water.

Of course, the first thing to check—and you should be checking this regularly—are the fluid levels. Start with engine oil, pulling the dipstick while the engine is cold and the boat is floating or level on its trailer or lift.

Next, check the gear-case lubricant. This would have been topped off at the start of the season, but sometimes air bubbles can ­prevent the oil from finding its proper level. Find the reservoir in your engine compartment and add the specified gear lube per your owner’s manual to the “full” mark. It’s normal to need to top off gear lube once or twice a season.

Related to gear-case oil levels, check your propeller shaft for fishing line. Look between the prop and the gear case for strands of line. If you haven’t knowingly run over fishing line, this might be sufficient. If you have run over fishing line, or just want to be ­completely sure, remove the prop and look. Fishing line can cut the seals, destroying your drive by allowing lubricant out and water in. Shaft seals with line cutters are standard on many sterndrive models.

Gear-case oil-level redux: If you do find fishing line around your prop shaft, haul the boat, drain the drive lube, and look for water. Let the drained lube rest in a clear glass jar, and any water will separate like salad dressing. Also, ­water-contaminated oil will come out looking whitish and frothy, like light coffee. Finding water, I suggest having the drive pressure-­tested. Then, change the seals and refill the lube ­before going back in.

Coolant level should be checked on freshwater-­cooled engines. With the engine cold, remove the pressure cap on the heat exchanger. The coolant level should be at the bottom of the fill neck. Replace the cap, and make sure it seats properly. Run the engine up to operating temperature, and check the level on the side of the recovery bottle. Add the specified coolant to the recovery bottle only when the engine is at operating temperature.

Read Next: Tips for Winterizing Your Sterndrive

Commonly called zincs, sacrificial anodes are also made from aluminum and magnesium. In any case, midseason is a good time to check the condition of these anodes, which sacrifice themselves to corrosion before the metal of the sterndrive gets eaten. Both drive and engine have anodes. Your engine’s  owner’s manual will show you the locations of the anodes. Adhere to the published replacement schedule. As a rule of thumb, replace an anode when it has lost half its mass.

Inspect your fuel filter by loosening the drain screw and draining fuel into a glass jar. Let the fuel settle. If there is water in the fuel, indicated by separation in the jar, replace the filter. Of course, also replace the filter if the specified hours have elapsed. Even for a scheduled change, dump the filter contents into a jar and look for excess water.

You’ll also want to look for physical damage to the drive and prop, be sure to lubricate all grease points per the owner’s manual, and check the belt ­tension. Finally, modern sterndrives have excellent self-protection systems and sensors built in. If you get an alert on the helm display, address it immediately.

The post Midseason Sterndrive Maintenance appeared first on Boating Mag.

Storing a boat on land requires knowledge and experience, for the safety of those involved, as well as for the long-term well-being of the boat being stored.  As we’ve written before, an improperly stored boat can be damaged by misplaced blocking or improper stand placement. 

Out of concern for safety, Brownell Boat Stands, leading maker of boat stands (a.k.a, poppets, jackstands) offers an online course to teach boaters  how to properly block and store vessels. Upon successful completion of the 45-minute course, students will earn a certificate.

I’ll say that this knowledge is required whether you do it yourself or hire the work done. Either way you want the job done right. 

A number of Boating editors have worked in boat yards and have experience blocking boats. We’ll be attending this course as a refresher, and reporting back to you with our thoughts after we complete it.

In the meantime, review the information in the following press release, exercise caution whenever storing a boat, and look for our followup story to come. 

Brownell Boat Stands & Equipment, manufacturer of the highest-quality, safest boat storage equipment on the market, now in its 70th year of operation, announced today that they have developed an online safety training class to teach users how to properly block and store boats. The Brownell Safety Training Program is currently available at a 25% discount and will be until June 30, 2024.

“Safety in our customers’ operations is top-of-mind for us here at Brownell and one of our primary goals when designing our equipment,” said Peter Hughes, Vice President of Sales and Marketing, Brownell Boat Stands. “Through our Safety Training Program, we aim to expand easy access to resources that will improve best practices in yards, dealerships and builders in order to best care for the boats and keep staff safe. Now with a 25% promotional discount, safety is even more affordable.”

The Brownell Safety Training Program consists of a 45-minute course that covers best practices to safely block, support and store all types of boats. Participants who pass the course can print a personalized certificate of completion, which can be used for continuing education credit or other similar programs. The program is accessible to all who are interested, especially new or seasoned professionals, in the hopes of encouraging industry-wide safety practices and the reduction in potential accidents.  

For more information about the Brownell Safety Training Program, visit boatstands.com/training.

For more information on Brownell Boat Stands & Equipment and its entire line of American-made boat storage solutions, visit boatstands.com.

The post Brownell Boat Stands Offers Online Boat Storage Course appeared first on Boating Mag.

The most important element of do-it-yourself boat maintenance is the “do it” part. Too often, the best DIY intentions are undone by procrastination, inattention, cheapness or just plain laziness. I’m not sure why our friend Russ failed to check the lower-unit lube on his Merc 150 this past fall, but last week, when he pulled the Russ-Craft out of its offseason storage spot in the back corner of his pole barn, he noted a puddle of gray, viscous 90-weight on the floor directly under the motor. A bad sign.

Because Russ chose not to check the lube this past fall, he did not know that a substantial amount of lake water had infiltrated the case. The 10-day stretch of below-zero overnight temps in January likely resulted in glacierlike pressure as that water expanded into ice, creating pressure sufficient to fracture die-cast aluminum. There may have even been a dramatic popping sound when the gear case cracked, probably in the middle of a frosty full-moon night as Russ slept beneath a down comforter, dreaming of a summer afternoon at the sandbar. His boat should have been as snug.

Despite the fact that the Mercury 150 was designed specifically for easy DIY maintenance by owners just like Russ, he admitted to not checking the gear-case lube for a few seasons. It always looked fine in the past, so he cut a corner.

Dan the Outboard Man was able to source Russ a good used gear case, which Dan refurbished with new seals, a water-pump kit and fresh lube. Being proud DIYers ourselves, my good friend Chuck Larson and I offered to help Russ replace the gear case this past Saturday afternoon. 

The first job was to remove the old lower unit, and as we got started, Russ said: “Dan says fishing line probably cut through the prop-shaft seal, but I stopped checking for line a few years ago when I got this Tempest prop with the line-cutter holes.”

Chuck and I looked at each other. Then we looked at the propeller. A little tail of fishing line was sticking out of one of the PVS holes in the prop hub.

“Russ, those holes are there to ventilate exhaust around the blades, to help the motor rev up for better acceleration,” I explained. “They are not line-cutting devices.”

“Really,” Russ said as he stroked his chin. “Really. I guess that might explain things.”

We pulled off the prop, and that little tail of line led to greasy bird’s nest of monofilament tangled around the prop shaft, and even more jammed up on the seal, several season’s worth of line. Humiliation can be an excellent tutor, but being good friends, Chuck and I did not rub it in too hard on Russ.

Read Next: The Reverse-Rotation Theory Goes Down in Flames

We offered Dan the old case for parts.

“Just throw it on the recycling pile,” Dan said. “If it had that much water inside, the gears are almost certainly shot anyway. This unit would not have lasted another season. Better that it cracked over winter than failed in the middle of the lake this summer.”

Leave it to Dan to find the silver lining. And remember, Boating friends, if you’re going to do it yourself, do it all. And do it right.

The post The Key to Successful DIY Maintenance appeared first on Boating Mag.

I’ve always applied antifouling paint to the transducers installed on my Regulator, Breakaway. Doing so ensures the output and return signals deliver better performance instead of being reduced by barnacles, grass or other growth on the ‘ducer. Twice, I’ve neglected to coat a transducer, I regretted it, as performance waned. Typically, I have used the same aerosol antifouling coating that I use to protect my outboard’s mounting bracket and my trim tabs. This worked fine.

Last year, I applied Foulfree by Propspeed to a new transducer I was installing aboard Breakaway. Foulfree is a foul-release, as opposed to anti-fouling coating. It contains no toxic biocides. Instead, it creates a surface so slippery that critters and plants get washed off as the boat is underway. This same technology has been successfully applied with Propspeed’s Propspeed coating, for propellers. In any event, a biocide-free coating sounds like a good idea to me. If it would provide solid protection.

To test Foulfree, I applied it to the one transducer. For comparison, I applied Interlux Trilux 33 aerosol to other transducers on the boat. The boat was then launched and stored in the water for six months in the Northeast United States. At haul out, in the fall, both transducers were equally clean.

The difference? Foulfree required additional prep and effort versus the Trilux. Of course, Foulfree contains no poisonous biocides. Points for the environment and personal safety in application. Additionally, Foulfree is certified by Airmar, world renown maker of transducers for most major brands of depth and fishfinders, to not impair transducer performance. I do not know if the Trilux 33 affected my transducer’s performance, though I have been historically-satisfied with transducer performance using that coating, or one like it.

Propspeed Foulfree comes in a kit that includes everything you need to cover about 1 square foot of transducer surface. That translates to coverage for between two and maybe four transducers. $35.99, freeportmarine.com.

Applying Foulfree

Applying Foulfree takes three basic steps. Clean the surface, prep the surface, apply Foulfree. Most of what you need is in the kit. You will need to supply some gear of your own:

• Disposable gloves
• Eye protection
• Mask
• Clean, dry rag
• Tape
• Fairing blocks only – 40 grit sandpaper (This means DO NOT sand the transducer face! Only sand plastic fairing blocks on through-hull transducers!)

For Existing Transducers

I applied Foulfree to a new transducer. If you are applying to a transducer with growth or dirt on it, follow these steps, reprinted from Foulfree, which is what I did.

Remove fouling and/or any previous coatings from the transducer housing and face with the abrasive pad provided.

In case of heavy fouling, scrape transducer face with a metal putty knife without gouging the surface. Drag the putty knife across the transducer face at a perpendicular angle and follow with a wet sanding block. Never use a power sander or pressure washer on the face of the transducer.

Take care not to scratch or damage the transducer face.

Read Next: Mounting an In-Hull Transducer on a Boat

New or Clean Transducers

1. Abrasive Pad

Firstly, lightly scuff/abrade plastic housing and face of the transducer.  Do not scour or deeply scratch the face of the transducer.

After abrading the transducer, tape off any areas you do not wish to coat with the Foulfree Transducer Coating.

2. Initial Clean Using XD Clean

Clean the surface to be coated with our specialised cleaning wipe. XDclean is transducer safe and ensures a contaminant-free surface for the Foulfree coating.

Immediately remove any residue with a clean, dry rag. Ensure the surface is 100% clean and dry before proceeding. 

Application Tips

• Use a clean and dry rag to remove any residue  
• Ensure the surface is 100-percent clean and dry before proceeding 

3. Conditioning

Apply XDprime generously using the provided wipe. Once applied, allow 10 minutes to dry. XDprime will look wet when first applied and will leave a white cast when dry. The surface is now ready for coating with Foulfree.

Application Tips

• Allow 10 minutes to dry before applying Foulfree
• XDprime will turn white once dry

4. Application

A small, high quality brush is included to provide the best result.

Pierce the seal of the tube using the lid. Squeeze a small amount of the Foulfree coating directly on to the brush.

Apply a thin layer of the coating on to the transducer. The ideal thickness is between 50 and 100 microns. Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags. You will have 5 to 10 minutes to touch these up.

Application Tips

• Use the provided brush to apply Foulfree
• Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags

Drying Time/Launching

Foulfree requires a minimum of 8 hours to dry before launching. In colder conditions, 40–60°F / 5-13°C, wait at least 24 hours before launching.

Foulfree can sit out of water for extended periods of time in warm or cold climates with no adverse effects.

The post We Test: Foulfree by Propspeed appeared first on Boating Mag.

Spring comes with a variety of jobs for do-it-yourself boat owners. Some are expected, such as waxing the hull or painting the bottom. Others crop up as a surprise over the winter, no matter how well you put your baby to bed the previous winter. While you’ll certainly use more tools than the ones listed here in making your boat ready this spring, consider this list the “common core” of your commissioning kit.

Paint Roller

I like to roll on bottom paint. Select a low-nap (¼-inch) roller. A heavy-nap ­roller lays on too thick of a coat. Select a fabric roller because foam paint ­rollers often disintegrate when subjected to the solvents in ­antifouling paints. A ­good-quality roller frame will have a handle with internal threads, so you can attach a screw-on pole or mop handle, saving a lot of reaching.

Buffing Machine

Wax can be applied by hand. Experienced boaters prefer a buffing machine. For most boaters, one of the dual-­action oscillating types is ­probably best. The pad of these—the part that applies and removes the wax—moves in an eccentric ­motion rather than simply rotating. This helps prevent marring the finish of your boat, which can happen with rotary polishers. Though, if you are experienced with disc sanders, a rotary polisher is handled similarly and will get the job done faster.

Screwdriver

Phillips head screws and bolts will be the most common type you will find aboard a modern fiberglass boat. About the only place I see slotted fasteners anymore are on hose clamps and on the gear-case drain plugs of some outboards. (And those are now few and far between.) Have a selection of sizes handy for everything from tightening hatch hinges to adding an electrical ­connection to a bus bar.

Filter Wrench

Outboard, ­inboard or sterndrive, you will need to change filters. These may be primary or secondary fuel filters, water separators or oil filters. I have a strap wrench set with rubber straps, in two different sizes, which handles most filters that I ­encounter. Some tough-to-access filters may better be served by a filter wrench designed specifically for that filter. These usually attach to a ­ratcheting-wrench handle.

Read Next: 38 Top Make-Ready Tips for the Spring Boating Season

Nut Driver

A nut driver is like a screwdriver but with a socket-­wrench tip. They can be solid—that is, the socket is fixed to the shaft of the handle. Or they can be removable, snapping onto or sliding into a special handle. In any event, this is the tool you’ll want for working by feel, at the end of your reach in the depths of the bilge or engine room, for tightening a hose clamp.

Electrical Crimpers

Perhaps you decided to install a new stereo, light or fish finder. Or maybe you checked your bilge-pump switch prior to launch and found that it did not work. Whatever the reason, electrical repair or new installation is a common spring task for boaters. Make sure you have a terminal-connection crimper handy. I like a ratcheting crimper. Make sure it can crimp over a range of 10- to 22-gauge stranded wire. (Learn how to create proper terminal crimps in this article.)

The post Six Tools for Spring Make-Ready appeared first on Boating Mag.

It’s that time of year again: Time to get the cover off the boat and get ready for summer fun on the water. If you are anything like me, you need a launch list to check off as you get the required tasks done and out of the way. I break down my list into five categories. Let’s take a look and make sure you have your vessel ready from top to bottom for the start of the new boating season.

Clean It

I always start at the scum line with an application of Marykate On & Off Hull and Bottom Cleaner to scour the hull bottom before applying any antifouling paint. Be careful: This stuff is hydrochloric-acid-based. Safety glasses and disposable gloves are important here. Paint it on with a disposable brush and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Shop now

Paint It

Next, I mask off the waterline and apply a fresh coat of ablative multiseason, water-based antifouling paint. If you are switching to this type of paint from something else, be sure to check for compatibility with your paint manufacturer. Because my boat is on a trailer, I’ll jack it up off the trailer with a small hydraulic jack, block it, and paint the entire bottom in sections. (Water-based paint ensures easy cleanup.)

Wax It

I struggled for years with a power buffer and traditional wax application on my boat’s dark-blue hull — but no more. About three years ago, I switched to a spray-on ceramic finish after paying a professional detailer to give the hull a final power buffing. I can’t believe how great my 10-year-old hull looks. No more carnauba wax for my boat — it’s ceramic coating all day.

Oils and Filters

I’m going to assume you did the right thing and changed your engine oil and filter as well as your lower-unit oil before your boat was decommissioned for winter. If not, change your ways and do it now. This should always be done before extended layup.

You should have a water-separating fuel filter in your system. It needs to be replaced each season, and keep a spare on board—you never know when you’re going to pick up water when refueling. Shop now

Impeller Action

Every three years or 300 hours of engine operation, your water-pump impeller should be replaced. Also, look carefully at the bonding wires—the small stainless-steel, uninsulated wires connecting articulating parts on your engine. These have a habit of breaking and should be replaced if this occurs. These wires are important to minimize engine corrosion.

Anode Action

Check all the sacrificial anodes on your engine(s) and mounting bracket, and replace those that have lost half their mass. Shop now

Hose Health

It’s important to give things like fuel hoses and primer bulbs a close inspection. Any cracks or chafe points dictate immediate replacement.

Fit and Trim

Make sure all the grease fittings on the engine and tilt mechanism get a shot of fresh grease. Finally, apply that same ceramic coating you used on the hull to help keep that engine paint looking like new.

Battery Maintenance

Depending upon the size of your boat, you’ll have at least one battery, and probably more than one. These need to be clean and secured in the boat to eliminate any movement. If they are of the serviceable variety, the electrolyte level needs to be checked and topped up as needed. Most new batteries today are of the sealed or semi-sealed variety, and you can’t add fluid. In fact, removal of the caps can ruin the battery. Again, make sure the top of the battery is clean and dry. Oily, dust-laden deposits attract moisture, which can cause low-level electrical leaks from the positive post to the negative. Clean and dry is the order of the day. Make sure the battery clamps are tight and corrosion-free. Incidentally, if your battery cables are held on with wing nuts, they are no longer compliant with industry standards because they can loosen too easily. Replace these terminal connections with locking nuts. Shop now

Electrical System Checks

Ensure that all the electrical devices on board are working as they should. Check things like fuse panels and exposed electrical connections, looking for any sign of corrosion or loose connections. Any corrosion needs to be cleaned, and a small wire brush can do the job easily. I like to give fuse holders and terminal strips a light spray of Boeshield T-9 to help keep corrosion at bay. CRC and others offer corrosion inhibitors if you can’t find Boeshield T-9. As for loose connections, tighten any held with a hex nut, and any push-on terminals might need replacement. Make sure you use proper crimping pliers and the right-size terminal for the wire gauge in question. Shop now

Have any lights out? Check the bulbs, and get them replaced as needed.

Electronic Equipment Checks

Now is the time to check for any software or firmware updates to your equipment and install as needed. Make sure the software for your multifunction display, electronic charting and other equipment is the latest available and update if not. This can be confirmed with a visit to the manufacturers’ websites.

Transducers

If your fish-finder transducer is transom-mounted, make sure it aims straight down; these are typically designed to articulate to accommodate different mounting angles. Also, make sure there is no barnacle or other sea growth on the transducer’s surface. Transducer antifoulant is available at West Marine and should be used, especially if your boat stays in the water all season. Shop now

I use Pettit transducer paint, which is also good for use on stainless-steel trim tabs and the submerged part of my outboard engine trim and mounting bracket. Propspeed Foulfree also makes a good transducer coating system.

Radio Check

Double-check the coaxial cable antenna connection to your VHF radio, and make sure you have a clean and tight, corrosion-free hookup. Perform a radio check, and don’t use Channel 16! Channel 9 will do nicely here and won’t clutter the emergency channel. Shop now

Antennas

If you have already checked all your electrical-system connections, then you have confirmed good power and ground connections for your equipment. Do the same for any GPS antenna connections.

Canvas Snaps, Zippers and Tie-Downs

Get some Star brite snap-and-zipper lubricant, and use it to help with those stubborn snaps that resist coming undone just a little too much at times. It also keeps zippers running smoothly. Are the clear vinyl windows in your canvas getting a bit hard to see through? Get some Flitz plastic polish and a Flitz BuffBall. Use as directed to get things cleared up. Shop now

Upholstery Service and Care

Vinyl upholstery on boats lives a tough life. UV exposure will eventually attack and destroy it. I use 3M Vinyl Conditioner & Protector monthly as part of a routine maintenance schedule for the vinyl on my boat. So far, so good. I get a lot of compliments on how great the seats and cushions look.

Exterior Wood

Wood types and amounts vary considerably from one boat to another. The only wood on my boat, for example, is a beautiful Edson wood-rimmed steering wheel. As with vinyl, it lives in the sun, and UV rays will eventually get to it. I lightly sand and varnish it every two seasons to keep it looking like new. Obviously, this will vary quite a bit between boats, but keeping your exterior wood looking first-class is an important maintenance item.

Read Next: More Spring Make-Ready Tips

Simple Safety

If you ever get stopped by the US Coast Guard for a routine safety inspection, you need to make sure your flares are not out of date and you have approved life jackets on board for everyone in your party. If you are like me, you probably carry inflatable life jackets. Make sure the inflation cartridges are still in the green; if not, they’ll need replacement. Also, be advised that these jackets come in different sizes. Young children won’t do well in an adult-size life jacket. Because the flare dating is something I typically forget, I switched to one of the new Coast Guard-approved electronic flare sets last season. Remember, these are battery-powered, so make sure the batteries are up to snuff each season. Shop flares. Shop Life jackets.

Make sure you have the required number of fire extinguishers on board and that their charge gauges are in the green. Also, US Coast Guard regulations require a “sound-producing device,” such as a handheld air horn or athletic whistle. Although not mandatory, I also recommend having a first-aid kit to take care of minor injuries. Shop fire extinguishers. Shop air horns. Shop first aid kit.

Once you’ve completed your spring commissioning checklist, it might be tempting to head straight to the launch ramp and take off on an all-day nautical adventure. Before you do that, take a pre-trip — aka shakedown trip — to make sure everything is OK on the water before going on a real boat outing.

Make a plan to launch your boat and check for leaks or any issues, then give it a short test run to make sure all your hard work paid off and the vessel is ready for boating season.

Prepare to Launch

Ready to kick the boating season off in style with a smooth, hassle-free launch? With these 38 tips, you’ll be fully prepared when it’s time to get your boat in the water alongside your family and friends. Enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing your vessel is ship-shape and set for fun and adventure.

The post 38 Top Make-Ready Tips for the Spring Boating Season appeared first on Boating Mag.

Surface preparation is the key to a bright shine, and ­electric buffers are the best way to remove oxidation, stains, and fine scratches for a lasting result. It’s 90 percent of the work, and without doing it, today’s new ­synthetic polymers and newer silicone dioxide compounds called ceramic can actually magnify surface imperfections and accelerate oxidation. And the trending graphene—a blend of silicone dioxide and a molecular derivative of carbon—will tint an improperly prepared surface an appalling gray.

So we tested several electric buffers to make the ­easiest time of prep work, and spoke to some experts on their equipment recommendations, techniques and ­accessories to get a professional finish, save time, and make sure ­boaters spend more time boating and less time buffing.

How We Tested

The equipment and accessories we’ve tested here are ­ideal for surface preparation for ceramic, graphene, ­polymer-wax and carnauba-wax protective coatings. We ­applied an X-shaped or a ­circular bead of multistage compound to the pad. Either shape worked fine as long as we pressed the pad against the hull before pulling the trigger to avoid “slinging” the compound. We worked in 2-foot-square patches, polishing in a crosshatch motion. GTecniq and Shurhold experts advised us to buff no more than 45 seconds to avoid ­generating ­damaging heat.

Note: High-speed rotary buffers are designed for aggressive compounding, known as cutting, and are best reserved for experienced  detailers. Dual-action orbital buffers are ideal for casual ­weekend warriors. We tested only the ­Hercules 12-volt rotary buffer, and thanks to its smaller wheels, it’s ideal for detail work in confined areas.

Buffers

Worx 20-Volt Cordless Orbital Buffer

$99.99; worx.com

We’ve tested many Worx tools, and they’ve all been nicely matched to their tasks. This new 10-inch orbital buffer is another good example. If you’ve got a supply of Worx tools, you have plenty of batteries to extend the 40-minute run time of the single included battery, and you can keep one on the charger while buffing. A thick 10-inch foam backer pad accepts the included applicator pad and the included synthetic-wool polishing pad. The orbital action at 3,000 rpm ensures that the polishing action won’t cause swirls. Its steering-wheel-style grip gives plenty of handling options, and at 6.8 pounds, it’s easy to manage.

Our Test: We liked the large pad for covering hullsides. The rotation stops if the pad is overpressured, but the back-and-forth orbital motion continues. The maximum 3,000 rpm speed is ideal for light compounding, and excellent for finish polishing. 

Included: Polishing bonnet, compounding bonnet, battery, charger

• Power: 20 V cordless
• Speeds: 3,000 rpm 
• Pads: 10-inch bonnets
• Weight: 6.3 lb.

Hercules HD035B 12-Volt CORDLess Variable-Speed Polisher/Sander

$69.99 tool; Batteries $24.99 2 ah, $34.99 4 ah; $44.99 charger; harborfreight.com

This buffer uses backing plates with threaded spindles and runs 3-inch buffer pads from 3 to 6 inches, making it ideal for a smaller boat or smaller surface areas such as helm stations and multifaceted interior spaces. The direct-drive rotary spindle has high- and low-speed settings for protecting delicate finishes or aggressively removing oxidation. Batteries and charger are a la carte.

Our Test: Its light weight makes it easy to control, and its small pads proved handy on our helm station, giving easier access and control. Variable speeds at zero to 2,800 rpm are ideal for polishing; high speeds of zero to 8,300 rpm are best for sanding.

Included: 1 ³/₄-inch and 2 ³/₄-inch sanding plates, 2 ⁷/₈-inch hook-and-loop buffing-pad backer, 2 foam pads, 1 wool buff pad, ambidextrous screw in right-angle handle

• Power: 12 V cordless
• Speeds: Low 0 to 2,800; high 0 to 8,300 rpm 
• Pads: 3- to 6-inch wheels
• Weight: 1.6 lb.

Shurhold Dual-Action Polisher

179.98; shurhold.com

This six-speed polisher is designed exclusively for Shurhold, a nationally acclaimed manufacturer of boat-care products. Each speed activates a faster rpm, from 2,500 to 6,500. Its random orbital action ensures a smooth, deep finish when properly used. Load up the wool or foam pad with a circular bead of polish, then press it to the surface before activating the polisher. High speed is for final polishing; use slower speeds for heavier compounds and cutting. The handle rotates from vertical to horizontal at the polishing head and gives a balanced grip.

Our Test: The handle proved easy to adjust for a comfortable angle, but we preferred the horizontal position for an even application of force. Setting the speed is easy with the thumb dial at the cord end of the buffer. A larger hand can better manage the grip at the trigger, but finger grooves on the bottom and the rubber padded top enhance control and add comfort to the large handle. We like the easy one-thumb trigger-lock mechanism for continuous running.

Included: Deluxe canvas storage bag, quick-change Velcro backing plate, pad wrench, standard side handle, deluxe D handle, pair of replacement carbon brushes, 20-foot power cord, GFCI plug adapter.

• Power: 120 V 4.5 amp
• Speeds: 6 speed; 2,500 to 6,500 rpm
• Pads: 5- to 6-inch hook-and-loop
• Weight: 4.8 lb.

Hercules HC109B 8-Amp 6-inch Forced Rotation Dual-Action Polisher

$129.99; harborfreight.com

This is the most aggressive rotary polisher we’ve seen that’s also equipped with the random orbital rotation for preventing swirling and burning. While many orbital or dual-action polishers’ pads will stall out if too much pressure is applied, this one continues to spin and orbit, giving more control—and more need for care—when removing heavy damage to a finish. 

Our Test: We liked the tapered grip of the tool and its trigger position right away. The front D-shaped handle is designed to be used in the horizontal position to evenly apply the pad flat against the surface to avoid overheating the finish. For that reason, we agreed with the fixed-handle design. Its soft start trigger is engaged on every rpm setting, and the speed-adjustment dial offers infinite options. Use lower speeds for polishing to avoid risk of swirling. Reserve the higher speeds for rapid removal of material in sanding.

Included: 6-inch hook-and-loop pad, 25-foot cord, 8-millimeter hex wrench

• Power: 120 V
• Speeds: Variable 3,200 to 9,600 rpm 
• Pad: 6-inch hook-and-loop
• Weight: 6.3 lb.

Meguiar’s MT300 DA

$240.80 buffer only; amazon.com

We weren’t able to test the soft-start trigger’s ability to stop compound slinging, but the feature should ensure optimal control. Dual-action orbiting helps prevent swirling, and the 3,000 to 6,500 rpm variable speed is controlled by a handy thumbwheel. The D-shaped handle rotates fore and aft, from 90 degrees vertical to horizontal in front of the wheel. The two-handed grip should reduce fatigue.

• Included: Buffer only
• Power: 120 V; 4.5 amp
• Speeds: Variable 3,000 to 6,500 rpm
• Pads: 5-inch hook-and-loop
• Weight: 5.4 lb.

Another Option: Dual-action Power-System Tool

$70.99; meguiarsdirect.com

Attach this to any variable-speed drill for easy buffing. We think that it would be ideal for the diligent DIY guy with one boat who keeps up finish maintenance and doesn’t require extensive surface restoration. It is far faster and more useful than hand-polishing but not as effective as a dedicated buffer. Dual-action orbital motion helps prevent swirls.

Read Next: Use Boat Paint, Never Wax Your Boat Again

Polishing Compounds

GTecniq Multistage Polish

This polish is one of two multistage ­compounding systems. It starts out aggressively at 1500-grit, and as it is worked against the surface, the grit breaks down to 2500-grit. Quit buffing ­before it dries, and wipe off the residue with a microfiber towel. Inspect and repeat if necessary. We tried it on metal surfaces and found it to work well there too. A 17-ounce bottle should buff a 25-foot boat. $37.95 (17 oz.); gtechniq.com

Shurhold BUFF Magic

This is also a multistage compound that begins as an aggressive formula with a tougher grit, then the grit breaks down into finer and finer particles as it is polished in. Eventually, it results in a high-gloss finish after removing oxidation and fine scratches. Buff Magic is also an excellent metal-polishing compound, but mask the area around it to protect from black metal residue. Shurhold says that 22 ounces finishes a 25-foot boat. $37.55 (22 oz.); shurhold.com

303 Three-Step Finishing Polish

The 303 system comes in three bottles: Step 1 is 1500-grit for cutting; Step 2 is 2000-grit for leveling; Step 3 is 2500-grit for final prep and polish. This system worked well, and applying each compound successively for 45 seconds did the job with minimal effort. For each 12-ounce bottle: Step 1 $21.80, Step 2 $35.18, Step 3 $24.99; amazon.com

Bonnets and Pads

Wool Pads

Wool pads are generally synthetic today, and per GTechniq’s experts, that’s OK. Each pad should be cleaned by running it over with a brush or a spur between applied sections. This removes caked-on compound and impurities from the finish. Wool is generally the choice of expert detailers. Hook-and-loop backing is the preferred attachment on 3- to 6-inch pads. Lace-on bonnets are usually used on 10-inch orbital buffers.

Foam Pads

These are used on buffer wheels less than 8 inches in diameter. They come in various consistencies from fine to coarse grit. They are less durable, disposable and, in our experience, require more care to avoid swirling. Buy several for a 25-foot boat.

Note: Whether you use wool or foam pads is a question of experimentation. Each hull is different, and our experts suggest trying a test area before proceeding to the entire hull.

The post Choosing the Right Buffer for Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

Keeping inboard running gear free of fouling can grow into a costly hassle. Propellers, prop shafts, struts, rudders, and other underwater metal quickly attract unwanted hitchhikers such as barnacles, worm casings, and algae, which hamper performance and require regular cleanings by divers. Without this routine, things turn bad quickly as marine fouling renders the running gear less than effective.

Yet there’s an alternative. Thanks to the biocide-free foul-release coating technology  in Propspeed, traditional periodic scrubbing and scraping of underwater metal components has become a chore of the past.

Properly applied, Propspeed creates an ultra-slick topcoat that prevents marine growth from gaining a foothold on metal surfaces for 12 to 24 months. Any fouling present on the golden-hued coating quickly slides away at speeds as low as 5 mph. Propspeed also thwarts corrosion.

Application is not beyond the ken of most do-it-yourselfers, but it requires strict adherence to the instructions to forestall premature failure. To help DIYers, the company has initiated the “Like a Pro” program, which includes online step-by-step videos at propspeed.com. There’s also an interactive Propspeed Coverage Calculator that estimates the amount of coating remover, cleaner, primer, and topcoat in the correct amounts based on the size of the boat and the underwater elements that you plan to protect.

This project focuses on applying Propspeed to the running gear of a 25-foot-length-overall single inboard-powered boat that has been hauled out of the water. We also masked off all running-gear zincs to prevent accidentally coating them in the process.

Skill Level: 3 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Propspeed Large Kit includes Propclean, Propprep, Etching Primer Base and Hardener, Clear Coat, two paint trays, rollers, and more ($599.00; westmarine.com)
• Stripspeed coating remover ($139.80 for two 1-liter bottles at $69.90 each; westmarine.com)
• Personal-protection ­equipment, including paper paint suit, dust-sanding mask, disposable gloves, and eye protection
• Plastic containers
• Disposable brushes for Clear Coat
• Paint scraper
• 80-grit wet/dry sandpaper and dual-action power sander
• Mixing stick
• Clean, dry rags for cleanup
• Paint-can opener

Metal Prep

Before you start, make sure you’re wearing a paper paint suit, dust-sanding mask, disposable gloves, and eye protection. Remove any fouling using a pressure washer. If you are reapplying Propspeed or other coatings are present, remove them completely using Stripspeed or a dual-action or air-driven sander. Next, abrade the bare metal surface with 80-grit wet/dry sandpaper. You can sand the surface with a dual-action or air-driven sander. For difficult and tight areas, wet-sand by hand.

Tip: To access all parts of the propeller and shaft, we recommend turning the prop using a brush, a wooden stick, or gloved hands.

Clean and Condition

Once any old coating is removed and the surface thoroughly sanded, clean the bare metal with the Propclean wipe provided in the Propspeed kit. Next, liberally apply the Propprep formula (this might come in the form of a red Propprep wipe or solution). Immediately wipe the surface with a clean, dry white cotton rag to remove all residue. Propprep solution is acidic and contains no corrosive inhibitors, so the treated surface should be primed per Step 3 as soon as possible afterward.

First Primer Coat

Propspeed requires two generous coats of Etching Primer. The yellow pigment in the bottom of the Etching Primer Base must be thoroughly mixed for two to three minutes before adding the Etching Primer Hardener. Add the Etching Primer Hardener to the can, and mix again. Any product not being used immediately can be resealed in the can and left in the shade for up to six hours. For best results and a flawless finish, use one of the rollers from the Propspeed all-in-one application kit. 

Tip: Propspeed recommends a minimum temperature of 50 degrees F for application of the primer and topcoat. Also, never apply the product in direct sunlight or in relative humidity above 85 percent.

Second Primer Coat

Once you have applied the first coat of Etching Primer, wait about three to five minutes before applying the next coat. Touch the first coat with your gloved finger—if it leaves a small print on the surface but no paint on your fingertip, begin applying the next coat. The three-to-five-minute recoat timing is based on 80-degree F temperatures. Warmer temperatures and windy conditions speed up the recoat time between the two coats of primer; cooler temperatures will slow down the recoat time.

Read Next: Choosing the Best Bottom Paint

Clear Coat

Proceed with the Clear Coat as soon as the last coat of Etching Primer is dry to the touch. Ensure that the Clear Coat is well-mixed, and apply using a brush or roller from the application kit, ensuring that there are no runs or sags. You’ll have five to 10 minutes for touch-up before the coat starts to set. Any drips that harden on the edges of the prop blades can be carefully cut off the following day. Coat the surface completely, making sure that there are no areas that appear dull in luster, indicating that they have not yet been coated.

The post How to Apply the Propspeed Antifouling System appeared first on Boating Mag.