Preparing a trailer boat for on-road safety while towing to and from a launch ramp calls for securing the transom eyes to the trailer with a pair of properly rated transom ­tie-down straps, in addition to securing the bow eye with the winch strap and safety chain. 

A pair of transom web straps generally connects the transom eyes to corresponding ­tie-down points on the back of the trailer, tightening with a buckle or a ratchet. Traditionally, you store the straps in your tow vehicle after you launch.   

However, one type of transom tie-down strap is engineered to remain attached to the trailer. These are known as retractable transom tie-down straps, and they were first introduced in the 1990s by Boat Buckle. The design concept has since been copied by a number of other companies, including BetterBoat, CargoLoc, Fulton, RhinoUSA, Strappino and others. 

While retractable transom tie-down straps are fairly easy to install, there are important factors to keep in mind when choosing straps and mounting methods to maximize longevity of the system and help ensure that the boat is secured as well as possible to the trailer while towing to keep the hull from sliding about or bouncing on the bunks or rollers. 

For this installation of retractable transom straps, we focus on a 21.5-foot center-console trailer boat that weighs approximately 4,000 pounds without the trailer and is used primarily in salt water. Here’s how the installation went.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2 hours

Tools and Supplies

• BetterBoat retractable ­43-inch stainless-steel ratchet tie-down straps ($73.99 per pair with adapter brackets and hardware; amazon.com)
• Power drill and drill-bit set
• Socket-wrench set
• Box/open-end wrench set
• Tape measure
• Cold-galvanizing spray paint ($21.90 per CRC ­Zinc-It 13-ounce aerosol can; grainger.com)

Select Straps

Retractable transom tie-down strap systems come in a variety of ratings for working loads and breaking strength. Select the highest rating possible for your rig. Better to have straps that are too strong than too weak. Ensure that the straps offer sufficient length to reach the transom eyes from the mounting point. If you boat in salt water, consider stainless-steel models with construction that resists ­corrosion. In our case, we decided on a pair of ­BetterBoat stainless-steel models with 43-by-2-inch web straps with a working load limit of 600 pounds and an assembly breaking strength of 1,800 pounds each.

Tip: Stainless-steel models have lower strength ratings than comparable models featuring carbon-steel construction, but the stainless version will cost more. If you boat in fresh water only, you can choose from the carbon-steel models.

Mounting Method

The compact ratchet system will mount in two ways. The standard method calls for fastening a 10 mm diameter  bolt through a hole in the rear crossmember of the trailer using a matching washer and nut. The second employs an adapter bracket that bolts to the trailer tie-down that is perpendicular on the rear crossmember. Thus, as with the standard mounting method, the strap deploys flat/parallel to the transom surface, eliminating any twist. Using the adapter bracket also eliminates the need to drill a hole in the trailer, which can break the painted or galvanized finish of a steel trailer and lead to corrosion.

Determine Location

The mounting location for the ratchet on the rear crossmember should align as vertically as possible with the transom tie-down eyes on the boat. Avoid angling the strap more than 30 degrees in any direction from up and down. Also avoid locations that draw the strap across any objects such as the aft corner of the hull, a trim tab or a transom-mounted transducer. On boats with integral outboard brackets or extended aft platforms, deploying the strap across the bottom of the transom might prove unavoidable. If this is necessary, consider placing a towel under the strap before tightening it to forestall wear on the boat finish.

Tip: In deciding a mounting location, be sure there’s enough swing room to work the ratch handle back and forth before you finalize your decision. There might be, for instance, a trailer taillight or trim tab that interferes with the handle or becomes a finger pinch point when tensioning the ratchet. 

Mount the Ratchets

If you choose the standard installation method, drill mounting holes in the desired locations, then give the raw metal a couple of coats of rust-fighting cold-galvanizing spray paint. Next, bolt the ratchets securely to the rear crossmember using the supplied hardware. If using an adapter bracket, decide on the best angle for the adapter depending on if the tie-down is in a vertical or horizontal orientation. Use the angle that orients the back of the ratchet mechanism parallel to the transom, allowing the strap to deploy parallel to the transom as well. Bolt the ratchets securely to the adapters using the supplied hardware.

Read Next: 6 Best Boat Trailer Light Kit Options

Deploy and Retract

To deploy and attach the BetterBoat straps, press the button in the middle of the ratchet handle to release the tension, then pull out the strap and attach the vinyl-coated strap hook to the transom eye. Press the button on the ratchet handle and move the handle up, then release the button and work the handle back and forth to tighten the strap. To remove the strap from the boat, press the button in the handle to release the tension on the strap, then remove the hook from the transom tie-down eye, allowing the spring-loaded ratchet to ­automatically ­retract the strap into the mechanism like a venetian blind.

Tip: After the first trip with the new retractable tie-down straps, recheck the tightness of the mounting hardware and retighten if necessary.

The post Installing Retractable Transom Straps appeared first on Boating Mag.

There are many sides to splicing wires for electrical projects on your boat. Should you solder or should you use crimps? How should you address keeping the water out? What products and techniques should you use? What about those wispy, thin electronics interface wires? I have tried to answer these and other questions in this article.

Soldering

The ­American Boat and Yacht Council says that we can solder, but we must also use a mechanical connection. The thinking is that a ­soldered connection makes the wire brittle and, due to the natural vibration and movement on a boat over time, prone to failure if it is not backed up by another means. Basically, you need to support a soldered connection against flexing. Soldering also requires practiced technique, a thing many boaters lack. A poorly soldered connection is not acceptable. That said, shrink-wrapping the soldered connection and then supporting it with at least two tie wraps is a common way to inhibit flex. This is one way to connect small-diameter wiring, such as that used to interface electronics. 

Crimping

A properly crimped connection is ­relatively ­flexible. Like soldering, there is proper technique involved in making a crimped connection. ­Practice making good crimp connections on scrap. Strip just enough wire (about 3/8 inch) so that the insulation butts against the barrel and stripped wire is barely visible at the barrel’s other end. Crimp in the center of the barrel using the right-size die, and test to make sure the connection is robust. ABYC requires 16 AWG crimped connections to withstand 15 pounds of pull (10 gauge must withstand 40 pounds). For thin wires, such as 22- to 24-gauge interface wires, crimp connectors are available but are not common. An alternative for thin wires is to strip back twice as much insulation as required, and then double the wire back on itself to increase its diameter and provide a snug fit in more commonly available crimp ­sizes. Waterproof shrink ­tubing, Liquid Electrical Tape or heat-shrink crimps should be used in any case. 

Read Next: How to Create Proper Terminal Crimps

Terminal Block

A third way to make wire connections is by using a terminal block. A terminal block is a collection of screw terminals, tied in pairs, and mounted on stiff plastic. Connect one wire to one side and connect the other wire to the mating side, and the circuit is complete. Each wire connects to the terminal block using crimp-on ring terminals. Size the ring terminal for the wire gauge, and also choose the ring terminal in a size that makes a snug fit on the screws of the terminal block. Do not use fork terminals, which can pull out. The terminal block’s screws go through the ring, ensuring a strong, tight connection. A terminal block can be fussy to use, and might not be the best ­connection in wet ­spaces. ­However, a terminal block makes it easy to see the wires and ­connections for ­maintenance and ­troubleshooting when ­required. 

Good Tools Matter

If you choose to solder, make sure you have your technique down pat. And practice. I also recommend using name-brand 63/37 rosin core solder because it melts and solidifies in a narrow temperature range, almost immediately, helping to eliminate a bad joint. Solder that ­solidifies too slowly is prone to a bad joint should any movement ­occur while you work. And on a boat, you will not be working on a stable bench. As for crimpers, make sure it has the right die sizes for the types of crimps you need. Also, select a ratcheting model. ­Basically, avoid the $10 ­discount-bin special.

The post How to Properly Splice Wires on Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

Inflatable water toys make for great summer fun. To save space and for easy transport, many boaters keep these deflated until they’re ready to start the fun. The question is: What’s the best way to inflate everything once you’re on the water and ready to get the party started? 

The new award-winning Atmos Air Station from Scanstrut represents one of the most convenient. It’s easy to use and ignition-protected. It flush-mounts permanently on a flat surface in your boat, with enough surface area and depth to accommodate the compact unit. 

Unlike portable inflators that need to be hooked up to a battery with alligator clips, the Atmos two-stage (high- and low-pressure) pump is always connected to power and ready to pump up any inflatable item you have on board. Atmos also lets you set the target air pressure that you want to achieve. It will automatically shut off when it reaches the preset PSI. What’s more, the brushless 12-volt DC air-pump motor can also deflate your toys (using the unit’s “Deflate” port) at the end of the day, so you can more easily stow them for the ride home. 

The Atmos features an LCD display and comes with a detachable 8-foot air hose (or optional 12-foot hose) and six types of connectors to fit a wide range of inflation valves on watertoys, floats and kayaks, as well as inflatable boats, stand-up paddleboards and foiling boards. Here’s how our project went on a 24-foot sterndrive runabout.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Scanstrut Atmos Integrated Air Station ($357; amazon.com)
• Masking tape
• Marking pencil
• Pozi screwdriver
• Power drill and drill-bit set
• Countersink bit
• 1 ¾-inch hole saw
• Thin-kerf hand or power saw
• Tape measure
• Soldering gun and materials
• Marine wire crimp connectors
• Heat-shrink tubing and heat gun
• Marine silicone sealant (optional)
• Ten 20 mm M3 countersunk machine screws, washers and nylon lock nuts (for installion on metal surfaces)

Select a Location

The Atmos must be flush-­mounted on a flat surface ranging from plus-10 to ­minus-30 degrees from vertical to prevent the accumulation of water in the door chamber or pump housing. Avoid curved surfaces. Allow for at least 12 ½ inches (­horizontal) by 8 ½ inches (vertical) to accommodate the faceplate and supplied sun cover, as well as an additional 3 ½ inches of clearance on the left side of the faceplate for the door to the inflator ports to swing open. Also ensure that there is at least 4 ½ inches of depth behind the mounting surface and that nothing will interfere behind the mounting surface with making the cutout.

Create the Cutout

Mask off the area to help prevent scratching the boat finish during installation. Cut out the supplied template, and tape it into position. Use a ­1 ¾-inch hole saw to cut each of the four corners, then follow up with thin-kerf hand or power saw to cut along the four lines that connect them. Next, drill ­pilot holes for the 10 self-tapping mounting screws. For soft material such as plywood or roto-molded plastic, use a ⁵/₆₄-inch diameter drill bit; for harder material such as fiberglass, acrylic or hardwood, use a ³/₃₂-inch drill bit. On a gelcoat surface, lightly chamfer each hole with a countersink to help prevent chipping.

Install the Unit

Remove the masking tape, and slide the unit into the cutout. The waterproof Atmos does not come with sealing gasket, but if you’re worried about water intrusion, lay a fine line of silicone sealant around the perimeter, and dab each of the screws with sealant. Align the 10 mounting holes (five each on the top and bottom) of the faceplate with the pilot holes on the mounting surface, and drive in the supplied No. 4 self-tapping stainless-steel screws. Do not overtighten at the risk of cracking the plastic flange of the faceplate. Install the upper and lower snap covers that hide the heads of the screws and give the ­installation a seamless look. 

Connect to Power

The Atmos comes with a two-wire 12-volt DC power cord that includes a positive (red) wire and a negative (black) wire. Connect the red wire to a positive bus bar that is connected to an on/off switch from the boat’s battery with a fuse or resettable circuit breaker between the battery and switch. Connect the black wire to a negative bus bar that’s connected to a common ground. Connect with terminals that are soldered or crimped on and covered with heat-shrink tubing to thwart moisture and corrosion. Support the wires throughout their run, and install anti-chafe grommets where the wires pass through bulkheads or decks.

Read Next: How to Patch an Inflatable Dinghy

Test the System

To make sure the Atmos system is working properly and that you grow familiar with its operation, pull out one of your towable water toys or other inflatable and follow the directions in the owner’s ­manual to blow it up. Then do the reverse, using the ­Atmos to deflate your towable. If you encounter any issues, refer to the troubleshooting guide in the owner’s manual to track down, address and correct the problem. When you’re done operating the Atmos, be sure to close the door that hides the inflate and deflate ports, cover the faceplate with the included sun cover, and turn off the switch suppling power to the Atmos air station.

The post How to Install an Atmos Air Station appeared first on Boating Mag.

We applied Pettit Trinidad XSR to the bottom of one of our boats in order to test it. After seven months stored in a saltwater creek thriving with marine plant and animal life, we can say the results were great and we can recommend Pettit XSR.

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Of course, just who would we recommend Pettit XSR to? Most antifouling coatings can provide at least moderate protection for some boaters, but may fall well short of expectations for other boaters. The reason for that seeming incongruity is that the effectiveness of an antifouling coating is dependent upon many factors. Obvious are things such as the exact location, the condition of the water, and the speed of the boat. Less obvious are things that include whether the boat will be hauled and re-launched (some paints lose effectiveness after hauling out) and how much sunlight the hull receives (sunlight exacerbates plant growth). Do you beach the boat at a sandbar? If so, an “effective” ablative paint, which can easily rub off,  recommended by your buddy who never beaches his boat, might not work as well for you. And, so on.

So, what kind of boater can we recommend Pettit XSR for? Consider these attributes and apply them to your boating style.

Trinidad XSR is a hard bottom paint, meaning the protection isn’t dependent upon the coating wearing away. That makes it good for those who beach their boats, haul out their boats or need to scrub the waterline due to scum accumulation.

Trinidad XSR is warranted to provide 24 months of protection when in the water. This makes it a great choice for boaters who do not haul annually, such as liveaboards and cruisers.

Trinidad XSR uses a triple biocide formula (Econea, ZPT and Copper Thyocyanate) that allows the use of less copper… a heavy metal. That makes it more appealing to boaters seeking a more environmentally-friendly than other paints with a higher copper content.

Trinidad XSR can be hauled out and remain active. This gives boaters who alternate between land storage and wet storage more options. If it’s been out for 2-3 years and looks dull, scuff it to re-activate it. After just winter, if the product still looks great, launch! If it’s been out of the water for 5 years, go ahead and put on a fresh coat.

Trinidad XSR’s efficacy is not dependent upon boat use. Its triple-biocide, extreme protection formula is just as effective at the dock as it is underway. So boaters who just can’t get out that much would benefit from Trinidad XSR.

Trinidad XSR can be used on underwater metals, including aluminum. That makes it great for owner’s aluminum boat hulls, as well as wood or fiberglass boat owners needing protection for drives, trim tabs and more.

Who might not choose Trinidad XSR?

Trinidad XSR is more expensive—not than “comparable” paints—but is in the realm of higher-performing, higher- priced anti-fouling coatings. Therefore, boaters looking to spend less as a primary consideration, may choose another paint…including other Pettit paints…and get different performance in exchange for the different price.

Trinidad’s XSR’s triple biocide formula makes it absolutely imperative that it is mixed properly prior to use. Our gallon was well-clotted, and required being placed on a shaker at a hardware store two days before use. We then subsequently mixed with a drill motor mixer on the day of application. (A complete mix can be accomplished without shaking—read the label) So, boaters not willing to adhere to a strict set of application and prep guidelines might choose a different paint.

Pettit Trinidad XSR covers 435 square-feet per gallon, applied as we did, using a low-nap (3/8”) roller. It can be launched after It comes in four colors (black, red, blue and green). As of May 2024, at Jamestown Distributors it retails for $411 per gallon.

For complete details, product application instructions and more, visit: pettitpaint.com.

Read Next: Can you renew dull, weathered vinyl upholstery? See our test of Pettit Fabricoat.

The post We Test: Pettit Trinidad XSR appeared first on Boating Mag.

Keeping a lid on your boat’s livewell keeps the crew and the deck dry in rough seas, but an opaque lid prevents you from easily checking on the health of your live-bait supply. That’s why so many new saltwater fishing boats today feature clear livewell lids. 

Lending impetus to this trend is the growing number of pressurized livewells requiring lids that latch and seal tight to keep water from overflowing. With a clear hatch, you can easily glance inside to check the bait without opening the lid, which otherwise allows water to gush out the top.

But what if you have an older boat with a lid made from fiberglass or King Starboard? Boat Outfitters makes and sells a wide variety of boat accessories and solutions, including custom clear acrylic livewell lids. Their expert staff will work with you to design and build a new clear lid using CNC machining and milling to perfectly replace your old one. The DIY part of this project is delivering accurate dimensions, removing the old lid and installing the new one.

To see how this process works, we asked Boat Outfitters to create a new clear acrylic lid for a 20-gallon livewell on our project boat: a 1986 outboard-powered ­center-console.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3 hours (including ordering details)

Tools and Supplies

• Custom 11 5/16-by-9 3/4-by-3/4-inch clear acrylic livewell lid with all new hardware and milled perimeter ($495.38; boatoutfitters.com)
• Digital calipers for precise measurements ($19.99; harborfreight.com)
• Tape measure
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket- and box-wrench sets
• Marine-bedding compound
• Assorted stainless-steel fasteners

Consultation

This project starts with sending a ­detailed message about what you are trying to achieve to Boat Outfitters at boatoutfitters.com/contact-us. Attach up to five photos of your old livewell lid, the opening to the well, and the hardware. You can also call 866-633-7961 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, but it is usually better to start by outlining your project in writing through the message portal so that the staff is better informed when getting back to you. Boat Outfitters also welcomes walk-ins if you happen to live close to the company’s facility in Ocoee, Florida, allowing you to consult in person.

Tip: Boat Outfitters also offers a number of stock clear acrylic livewell hatches for many of today’s most popular saltwater fishing boats from brands such as Boston Whaler, Key West, Mako, Regulator, Robalo, Sportsman and others.

Measure Precisely

Boat Outfitters will email you three sheets to complete, including the dimensions of the molded lip of the livewell pass-through (sheet 1), and dimensions of the pass-through opening of the existing livewell hatch (sheet 2). Sheet 3 is a template for determining the radii of the corners of the hatch. Use digital calipers to measure the dimensions on sheet 1; a tape measure works for sheet 2. (If you lost the old lid, make a template to help guide the new design.) Email the completed forms to Boat Outfitters, which will help determine the feasibility of the project and quote a price to create the new lid.

Ship the Old Lid

Once Boat Outfitters reviews your completed forms, they will send a confirmation and might call with more questions. In some cases, including ours, it might be necessary to remove and ship the old hatch cover to them. They can use the original hatch as a prototype to scan and create a software file needed for machining. We did this, leaving all of the original hardware attached, including a pair of friction hinges and the pull handle. While Boat Outfitters replaces all of this with fresh hardware, it allows them to drill and attach the new hardware in precisely the same locations as on the old lid.

Approve the Order

Based on the supplied dimensions and scan of the existing livewell lid, Boat Outfitters will email you computer-generated drawings of the new lid for your approval. These drawings include specifications such as the material; length, width and depth of the lid; the radii for the corners and routed edges; and the location and model numbers of the hardware. Carefully review everything to ensure accuracy, and once you are satisfied, return the ­drawings with your signature of ­approval, and Boat Outfitters will move ahead with ­production and, once complete, will ship the new lid (as well as your old one) to you.

Read Next: Installing a High-Speed Center-Console Livewell

Install the New Lid

Once the clear acrylic livewell lid arrives, remove the old hatch if you have not done so already. The new hatch will come with new, pre-­installed hinges that match the old hinges. Use fresh stainless-steel fasteners and marine-bedding compound to through-bolt the hinges in the same location as the original hinges. We ordered friction hinges for our lid; these can be a little tight initially, so the lid without a latch might not close and seat completely. However, friction hinges do wear in over time to articulate more freely, eventually allowing the lid to seat completely on the rim of the livewell.

Tip: Boat Outfitters uses barrel nuts on the underside of clear acrylic livewell lids to attach hinges and other hardware. This results in a flush fit on the underside that eliminates interference issues with the lip on the livewell pass-through.

Let There Be Light

In addition to letting anglers readily keep an eye on their live-bait supply, clear lids also help keep bait alive and injury-free by allowing abundant natural light in to illuminate the interior. This lets the bait see better and avoid bumping into the walls of the livewell­—­artificial barriers that ­baitfish normally don’t have to deal with.

The post Installing Clear Acrylic Livewell Lids appeared first on Boating Mag.

Shallow-water anchors are fairly recent developments that first found application on bay boats, flats skiffs and, soon thereafter, bass boats. Available from brands such as Lewmar, Minn Kota and Power-Pole, these generally attach to the transom or an adapter bracket that integrates with an outboard-engine mount or jack plate. 

The device’s articulating arm deploys electrically or hydraulically astern and downward to push a fiberglass pole/spike into the lake or sea bed to hold the boat in place. Though developed for fishing, they are also great for anchoring at sandbars and shorelines. When it’s time to move, the articulating-arm device retracts clear of the water and stows in a vertical position.

Installing a shallow-water anchor represents a fairly easy do-it-yourself project for most boating gearheads, and the electrically actuated anchors are the easiest of all because they do not require mounting hydraulic pumps and lines. For this project, we chose one of the relatively new ­shallow-water anchors on the market: the Lewmar Axis, which operates electrically on 12-volt DC power and is suitable for boats up to 26 feet in length and water depths of up to 7 feet. It operates wirelessly with a ­remote-control fob or on the radio-frequency module’s ­hard-wired switch. 

Here’s how we installed this device directly on the transom of a 22-foot bay boat.

Skill Level: 3 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Lewmar Axis shallow-water anchor ($1,198; Amazon.com)
• Marine-grade sealant ($6.99 – $7.99; Bass Pro Shop)
• Watertight cable clam for power and control cables pass-through ($32.61; fisheriessupply.com)
• Power drill ($99; Amazon) and drill-bit set ($7.99; Amazon)
• Socket- and box-wrench sets ($88; Amazon)
• Phillips screwdriver ($9.99; Amazon)
• Masking tape ($3.58; Amazon)
• Marker ($5; Amazon)
• Crimp-on butt connectors with heat-shrink collars ($15; Amazon)
• Crimping tool ($9; Amazon)
• Heat gun ($19.99; Amazon)
• Clean rags to wipe off excess sealant ($24.99; Amazon)

Mounting Location

Cover the mounting area with masking tape to prevent scratches. The lowest point of the mount must be above the waterline to prevent adverse boathandling. Ensure that the bracket is parallel with the waterline and there’s no interference with the trim tabs and the Axis. With the anchor held in place, operate the outboard motor through the ­entirety of its turning and trim range to confirm that there’s no interference. Also make sure there’s enough room inside the transom to tighten the mounting hardware.

Drill the Holes

With the help of another person, hold the stern mounting bracket against the transom, and mark the location of the four holes with a marker. Set the Axis aside, and make sure there are no objects that you might accidentally damage while drilling the mounting holes. Use a 1/8-inch drill bit and power driver to drill four pilot holes though the transom where you marked their locations. Next, refit the drill with a 3/8-inch bit to drill perpendicular to the surface through the four pilot holes to open them up.

Install the Anchor

Apply sealant on the mating surfaces and mounting holes. Align the bracket with the holes. Insert into each bracket hole one of the supplied 3/8-inch 16-by-3-inch-long hex head bolts with washers. Push them into the transom holes. From the inside, place one of the supplied 3/8-inch-by-1 1/2-inch-diameter washers over each of the bolts, then thread on a 3/8-inch brass locknut. Have a buddy hold the bolt heads on the outside while you tighten the locknuts from the inside using a 9/16-inch wrench. 

Tip: Route the 12-volt power and control cables from the Axis to the battery compartment and location of the RF module, respectively, via the main rigging port or a watertight cable clam such the Blue Seas System model 1003100 on the transom, motorwell or stern deck. 

Install the RF Module

Tape the supplied mounting template for the RF module close to a 12-volt DC power source, then drill the four holes with a 1/8-inch drill bit. Secure the module with the four supplied No. 6-by-3/4-inch screws. Using the heat-shrink crimps, connect the short black lead (A) to the negative 12-volt source and the short red lead (B) to the positive 12-volt source. Plug in the longer black lead (C) into the receiving plug on the Axis. Next, connect the Axis’ main positive and negative power to the battery bank.

Tip: Lippert recommends that the two power leads be connected to a battery switch because the RF module will draw a small amount of power when not in use.

Read Next: How to Anchor Using Alternative Methods

Programming

The transmitter and receiver can be configured two ways. For momentary mode, the receiver output remains active as long as the transmitter switch is depressed, and it turns off when the switch is released. For latching mode, the receiver output becomes active as soon as the transmitter switch is depressed and released. Receiver output turns off when the switch is depressed and released again. Follow the programming instructions in the manual to configure the module to your preference.

The post How to Install a Shallow-Water Anchor appeared first on Boating Mag.

The most important element of do-it-yourself boat maintenance is the “do it” part. Too often, the best DIY intentions are undone by procrastination, inattention, cheapness or just plain laziness. I’m not sure why our friend Russ failed to check the lower-unit lube on his Merc 150 this past fall, but last week, when he pulled the Russ-Craft out of its offseason storage spot in the back corner of his pole barn, he noted a puddle of gray, viscous 90-weight on the floor directly under the motor. A bad sign.

Because Russ chose not to check the lube this past fall, he did not know that a substantial amount of lake water had infiltrated the case. The 10-day stretch of below-zero overnight temps in January likely resulted in glacierlike pressure as that water expanded into ice, creating pressure sufficient to fracture die-cast aluminum. There may have even been a dramatic popping sound when the gear case cracked, probably in the middle of a frosty full-moon night as Russ slept beneath a down comforter, dreaming of a summer afternoon at the sandbar. His boat should have been as snug.

Despite the fact that the Mercury 150 was designed specifically for easy DIY maintenance by owners just like Russ, he admitted to not checking the gear-case lube for a few seasons. It always looked fine in the past, so he cut a corner.

Dan the Outboard Man was able to source Russ a good used gear case, which Dan refurbished with new seals, a water-pump kit and fresh lube. Being proud DIYers ourselves, my good friend Chuck Larson and I offered to help Russ replace the gear case this past Saturday afternoon. 

The first job was to remove the old lower unit, and as we got started, Russ said: “Dan says fishing line probably cut through the prop-shaft seal, but I stopped checking for line a few years ago when I got this Tempest prop with the line-cutter holes.”

Chuck and I looked at each other. Then we looked at the propeller. A little tail of fishing line was sticking out of one of the PVS holes in the prop hub.

“Russ, those holes are there to ventilate exhaust around the blades, to help the motor rev up for better acceleration,” I explained. “They are not line-cutting devices.”

“Really,” Russ said as he stroked his chin. “Really. I guess that might explain things.”

We pulled off the prop, and that little tail of line led to greasy bird’s nest of monofilament tangled around the prop shaft, and even more jammed up on the seal, several season’s worth of line. Humiliation can be an excellent tutor, but being good friends, Chuck and I did not rub it in too hard on Russ.

Read Next: The Reverse-Rotation Theory Goes Down in Flames

We offered Dan the old case for parts.

“Just throw it on the recycling pile,” Dan said. “If it had that much water inside, the gears are almost certainly shot anyway. This unit would not have lasted another season. Better that it cracked over winter than failed in the middle of the lake this summer.”

Leave it to Dan to find the silver lining. And remember, Boating friends, if you’re going to do it yourself, do it all. And do it right.

The post The Key to Successful DIY Maintenance appeared first on Boating Mag.

I’ve always applied antifouling paint to the transducers installed on my Regulator, Breakaway. Doing so ensures the output and return signals deliver better performance instead of being reduced by barnacles, grass or other growth on the ‘ducer. Twice, I’ve neglected to coat a transducer, I regretted it, as performance waned. Typically, I have used the same aerosol antifouling coating that I use to protect my outboard’s mounting bracket and my trim tabs. This worked fine.

Last year, I applied Foulfree by Propspeed to a new transducer I was installing aboard Breakaway. Foulfree is a foul-release, as opposed to anti-fouling coating. It contains no toxic biocides. Instead, it creates a surface so slippery that critters and plants get washed off as the boat is underway. This same technology has been successfully applied with Propspeed’s Propspeed coating, for propellers. In any event, a biocide-free coating sounds like a good idea to me. If it would provide solid protection.

To test Foulfree, I applied it to the one transducer. For comparison, I applied Interlux Trilux 33 aerosol to other transducers on the boat. The boat was then launched and stored in the water for six months in the Northeast United States. At haul out, in the fall, both transducers were equally clean.

The difference? Foulfree required additional prep and effort versus the Trilux. Of course, Foulfree contains no poisonous biocides. Points for the environment and personal safety in application. Additionally, Foulfree is certified by Airmar, world renown maker of transducers for most major brands of depth and fishfinders, to not impair transducer performance. I do not know if the Trilux 33 affected my transducer’s performance, though I have been historically-satisfied with transducer performance using that coating, or one like it.

Propspeed Foulfree comes in a kit that includes everything you need to cover about 1 square foot of transducer surface. That translates to coverage for between two and maybe four transducers. $35.99, freeportmarine.com.

Applying Foulfree

Applying Foulfree takes three basic steps. Clean the surface, prep the surface, apply Foulfree. Most of what you need is in the kit. You will need to supply some gear of your own:

• Disposable gloves
• Eye protection
• Mask
• Clean, dry rag
• Tape
• Fairing blocks only – 40 grit sandpaper (This means DO NOT sand the transducer face! Only sand plastic fairing blocks on through-hull transducers!)

For Existing Transducers

I applied Foulfree to a new transducer. If you are applying to a transducer with growth or dirt on it, follow these steps, reprinted from Foulfree, which is what I did.

Remove fouling and/or any previous coatings from the transducer housing and face with the abrasive pad provided.

In case of heavy fouling, scrape transducer face with a metal putty knife without gouging the surface. Drag the putty knife across the transducer face at a perpendicular angle and follow with a wet sanding block. Never use a power sander or pressure washer on the face of the transducer.

Take care not to scratch or damage the transducer face.

Read Next: Mounting an In-Hull Transducer on a Boat

New or Clean Transducers

1. Abrasive Pad

Firstly, lightly scuff/abrade plastic housing and face of the transducer.  Do not scour or deeply scratch the face of the transducer.

After abrading the transducer, tape off any areas you do not wish to coat with the Foulfree Transducer Coating.

2. Initial Clean Using XD Clean

Clean the surface to be coated with our specialised cleaning wipe. XDclean is transducer safe and ensures a contaminant-free surface for the Foulfree coating.

Immediately remove any residue with a clean, dry rag. Ensure the surface is 100% clean and dry before proceeding. 

Application Tips

• Use a clean and dry rag to remove any residue  
• Ensure the surface is 100-percent clean and dry before proceeding 

3. Conditioning

Apply XDprime generously using the provided wipe. Once applied, allow 10 minutes to dry. XDprime will look wet when first applied and will leave a white cast when dry. The surface is now ready for coating with Foulfree.

Application Tips

• Allow 10 minutes to dry before applying Foulfree
• XDprime will turn white once dry

4. Application

A small, high quality brush is included to provide the best result.

Pierce the seal of the tube using the lid. Squeeze a small amount of the Foulfree coating directly on to the brush.

Apply a thin layer of the coating on to the transducer. The ideal thickness is between 50 and 100 microns. Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags. You will have 5 to 10 minutes to touch these up.

Application Tips

• Use the provided brush to apply Foulfree
• Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags

Drying Time/Launching

Foulfree requires a minimum of 8 hours to dry before launching. In colder conditions, 40–60°F / 5-13°C, wait at least 24 hours before launching.

Foulfree can sit out of water for extended periods of time in warm or cold climates with no adverse effects.

The post We Test: Foulfree by Propspeed appeared first on Boating Mag.

While a host of new-tech products such as ceramic coatings and graphene sprays has emerged to treat gelcoat finishes on fiberglass boats, traditional marine waxes remain among the most effective and least expensive ways to lay down a protective barrier from sunlight and stains. To learn how to achieve the best boat waxing results, we talked with Sam McGinley of Shurhold Industries, a boat-detailing expert who provided these eight tips.

Start With a Clean Surface

“Start with a finish that is as clean and smooth as ­possible,” McGinley says. A marine wax, be it paste or liquid, is not a corrective chemical; it is designed to seal, creating a shiny sacrificial barrier against UV and environmental fallout. But it will not make gelcoat look better, he explains. To improve the look, you will need to wash and dry the boat. Depending on the gelcoat condition, you also might need to apply rubbing compound to remove surface ­oxidation, eliminate stains, and/or ­degrease the surface. “This can represent as much as 90 percent of the work,” McGinley points out. “Only after you’re happy with the appearance of the finish should you begin the boat waxing process.”

Use a Pure Wax

There exists a multitude of products called waxes, including “cleaner waxes” that include compounding chemicals in addition to waxes. However, because McGinley recommends compounding and cleaning the surface beforehand, he prefers to use a pure wax such as Shurhold’s Pro Polish. Despite the name, it is a wax and sealant. Pure marine waxes from ­other brands include 3M Perfect-It Boat Wax, Meguiar’s M5616 Boat/RV Pure Wax, and Star brite Presoftened Boat Wax.

Avoid Direct Sunlight

Direct sunlight during the ­application intensifies ­surface temps, causing the wax to dry too quickly, reducing the ­working time. This causes the wax to cake up and become ­difficult to remove. Ideally, boat waxing should be done in a cool environment and in the shade.

Work in Small Areas

McGinley advises DIYers to work in small areas such as 2-by-2-foot or 3-by-3-foot ­sections, one at a time, ­whether applying by hand or with a buffing machine. Apply the wax within the square first in an up-and-down motion and then from side to side, to ensure full coverage. When applying by hand, use an applicator pad or a microfiber towel. With a buffer, use Shurhold’s Pro Polish pad, McGinley recommends.

Quick Cure Time

Allow only three to four minutes for each section to cure before buffing it out. Make sure you remove all of the hazy, cured boat wax using a clean microfiber towel (if buffing by hand) or a microfiber pad with a machine buffer.

Lots of Microfiber Towels

While terry towels used to be the traditional favorite, today, microfiber products are easier on gelcoat for both application and buffing. But you will want plenty of clean towels and machine pads standing by because the ­microfiber ­eventually becomes saturated with wax during application. It also loads up with wax residue when buffing. The good news is that you can wash microfiber products, but do so using cold water, not hot.

Read Next: Choosing the Right Buffer for Your Boat

Machine Boat Waxing

If you prefer to use a machine polisher versus hand-waxing, choose a dual-­action oscillating buffer. “The random action of these labor-­saving devices eliminates the risk of ‘burning’ edges of the boat’s gelcoat finish,” McGinley says, referring to a downside of incorrect use of single-action buffers.

Maintaining the Shine

“Wax is not something that lasts forever,” McGinley points out. “To maintain the shine and protective qualities, reapply three to four times each year.” Other steps include avoidance of harsh cleaning chemicals such as ­dishwashing soap or products containing chlorine—all of which strip away the wax’s protective barrier. “Use only a dedicated boat soap, and dry your boat with a microfiber towel each time after you wash it to eliminate the minerals deposited by water spots.”

The post 8 Tips for Waxing Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

Keeping inboard running gear free of fouling can grow into a costly hassle. Propellers, prop shafts, struts, rudders, and other underwater metal quickly attract unwanted hitchhikers such as barnacles, worm casings, and algae, which hamper performance and require regular cleanings by divers. Without this routine, things turn bad quickly as marine fouling renders the running gear less than effective.

Yet there’s an alternative. Thanks to the biocide-free foul-release coating technology  in Propspeed, traditional periodic scrubbing and scraping of underwater metal components has become a chore of the past.

Properly applied, Propspeed creates an ultra-slick topcoat that prevents marine growth from gaining a foothold on metal surfaces for 12 to 24 months. Any fouling present on the golden-hued coating quickly slides away at speeds as low as 5 mph. Propspeed also thwarts corrosion.

Application is not beyond the ken of most do-it-yourselfers, but it requires strict adherence to the instructions to forestall premature failure. To help DIYers, the company has initiated the “Like a Pro” program, which includes online step-by-step videos at propspeed.com. There’s also an interactive Propspeed Coverage Calculator that estimates the amount of coating remover, cleaner, primer, and topcoat in the correct amounts based on the size of the boat and the underwater elements that you plan to protect.

This project focuses on applying Propspeed to the running gear of a 25-foot-length-overall single inboard-powered boat that has been hauled out of the water. We also masked off all running-gear zincs to prevent accidentally coating them in the process.

Skill Level: 3 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Propspeed Large Kit includes Propclean, Propprep, Etching Primer Base and Hardener, Clear Coat, two paint trays, rollers, and more ($599.00; westmarine.com)
• Stripspeed coating remover ($139.80 for two 1-liter bottles at $69.90 each; westmarine.com)
• Personal-protection ­equipment, including paper paint suit, dust-sanding mask, disposable gloves, and eye protection
• Plastic containers
• Disposable brushes for Clear Coat
• Paint scraper
• 80-grit wet/dry sandpaper and dual-action power sander
• Mixing stick
• Clean, dry rags for cleanup
• Paint-can opener

Metal Prep

Before you start, make sure you’re wearing a paper paint suit, dust-sanding mask, disposable gloves, and eye protection. Remove any fouling using a pressure washer. If you are reapplying Propspeed or other coatings are present, remove them completely using Stripspeed or a dual-action or air-driven sander. Next, abrade the bare metal surface with 80-grit wet/dry sandpaper. You can sand the surface with a dual-action or air-driven sander. For difficult and tight areas, wet-sand by hand.

Tip: To access all parts of the propeller and shaft, we recommend turning the prop using a brush, a wooden stick, or gloved hands.

Clean and Condition

Once any old coating is removed and the surface thoroughly sanded, clean the bare metal with the Propclean wipe provided in the Propspeed kit. Next, liberally apply the Propprep formula (this might come in the form of a red Propprep wipe or solution). Immediately wipe the surface with a clean, dry white cotton rag to remove all residue. Propprep solution is acidic and contains no corrosive inhibitors, so the treated surface should be primed per Step 3 as soon as possible afterward.

First Primer Coat

Propspeed requires two generous coats of Etching Primer. The yellow pigment in the bottom of the Etching Primer Base must be thoroughly mixed for two to three minutes before adding the Etching Primer Hardener. Add the Etching Primer Hardener to the can, and mix again. Any product not being used immediately can be resealed in the can and left in the shade for up to six hours. For best results and a flawless finish, use one of the rollers from the Propspeed all-in-one application kit. 

Tip: Propspeed recommends a minimum temperature of 50 degrees F for application of the primer and topcoat. Also, never apply the product in direct sunlight or in relative humidity above 85 percent.

Second Primer Coat

Once you have applied the first coat of Etching Primer, wait about three to five minutes before applying the next coat. Touch the first coat with your gloved finger—if it leaves a small print on the surface but no paint on your fingertip, begin applying the next coat. The three-to-five-minute recoat timing is based on 80-degree F temperatures. Warmer temperatures and windy conditions speed up the recoat time between the two coats of primer; cooler temperatures will slow down the recoat time.

Read Next: Choosing the Best Bottom Paint

Clear Coat

Proceed with the Clear Coat as soon as the last coat of Etching Primer is dry to the touch. Ensure that the Clear Coat is well-mixed, and apply using a brush or roller from the application kit, ensuring that there are no runs or sags. You’ll have five to 10 minutes for touch-up before the coat starts to set. Any drips that harden on the edges of the prop blades can be carefully cut off the following day. Coat the surface completely, making sure that there are no areas that appear dull in luster, indicating that they have not yet been coated.

The post How to Apply the Propspeed Antifouling System appeared first on Boating Mag.